I guess the parentheses in the title is an afterthought that should have been my first thought. Vienna is just one huge city full of blessings! I feel like it is Europe's best kept secret. Not many appreciate Vienna the same way they know to appreciate Paris, London and Rome. Most of the tourists here are German-speaking. This is not a bad thing for me! It means I get to feel more a part of the culture here when everyone around me is speaking German, whether they are from Wien or not. I'm just starting to hear dialects in peoples' German. You must have quite an ear for the Austrian German to understand when someone is speaking a dialect, and part of this comes from getting to listen to my Oma and Opa speak true Austrian German to one another every once in a while! I am so excited to come back to the states and feel more confident in speaking German to my family.
Vienna is a blessing. As soon as I walk outside every day, I feel something come over me that just makes me happier than ever. When I sit outside, and take in the fresh air, I know that this city, reaching way back into history, has truly been blessed with something unique and special. Maybe I can't put my finger on exactly what it is? You would have to come and see for yourself. (Which I encourage you to do, if you are reading this!)
In the mood for some mood-brighteners? I have a few for you.
We will begin on Monday night. When I arrived back at my apartment from my Monday classes, my roommate Claire was in the mood to do something and go somewhere, and she suggested that we go to a jazz club--the building there has been dated back to about year 980! We opened the somewhat shady looking door, and it was like opening up a door in Hogwarts castle! It was love at first sight. Old bricks and a dome shaped ceiling of bricks made up a one room cellar kind of jazz club. We went down the stairs, paid our 18 Euros to see the American swing band, the Hayes Kavanagh All-Star band, and we made our way to the only table available for the 5 of us who trekked out on a Monday night! Time here seems to have stood still. It felt as if we had travelled back in time to an old jazz swing band performance at a bar. We were the youngest there, by far, so much that people were kind of staring at us. We sat there for 3 and a half hours of great jazz music and I was absolutely thrilled with the talent and pure enjoyment we just experienced. I could go into more detail, but let's just say we were about 3 feet away from the trombone player who was glad to speak English to us throughout the performance, and the piano player was from New York and did his undergrad with Renee Fleming, and served often as her accompanist! Hmm, small world!!
Well that was just the background story--here is the mood brightener: After the show was over, the band members left, except for the old guy who played the bass and introduced all the songs in German. He came up to our table and pulled up a chair from the stage. He sat down and told us all about how he is so happy to have fun with a band of all musicians, himself being the only one who has a day job apart from playing bass. He was an attorney at law and had clients in Europe for whom they were scheduled to play private parties. He organized the whole 10 day tour for the group, and the group is named after him. He asked us what brought us out to the club that day. After we told him, he said in his gentle yet half-mumbled voice, "Well, I want to reimburse you for paying that 18 euros at the door. I know what it was like to be a student. I was there once." At that, and ignoring our shouts of surprise and refusal, he laid two 50 Euro bills on the table and asked non-chalantly for a ten back. 18x5=90 Euros. That was quick math for an elderly man with a few beers in him! We refused for a bit and simply stared at the money on the table, but then I thought this: 'I know how it feels to do something nice for some strangers. He is an attorney. He has money. We should let him do this, and thank him.' And so I gave him a ten, shook his hand a few times, and thanked God for the great thoughtful man with musical talent, who we will probably never see again.
Yesterday, my mood brightener was a simple pleasure: an old black and white movie filmed in the 1940's and shown weekly at this adorable theater on the Ring by the Opera. The movie was called "The Third Man" and was filmed completely in Vienna. It was fun to identify some of the places in the movie where we have walked over and over again! Yet another Tuesday night indulgence with Emily Janser is completed. We treated ourselves to Gelato, specifically Rocher Ferraro gelato--another gift from God! Thank you for ice cream!
Today, my day was made by a child. In my mind, the best blessings of life can be found in children. I love watching children interact and being with children. Vienna is a good place to do this, considering the numerous school groups who walk around the city together with clipboards--I think they have to go on some kind of scavenger hunt, I don't know! I like watching them and listening to the way they talk. But today, I was nowhere near a group of school children. I got up early and before class, I sat in the freshly mown grass in Stadtpark, near the famous statue of Strauss. The section of green grass was completely empty, except for a few sitting in the shade around the perimeter. Unexpectedly, this beautiful little blonde girl, about 3 years old, does the little waddle-run towards me, and when I expect her to stop a distance away, she keeps coming, and sits on her knees literally inches from me. I take out my headphones and look at her cute smile and blue eyes and I try to speak German to her, but all she had to offer was her beautiful smile. I looked around and her father came over and said in German, "look, she made a friend" and he had to call her name a few times before she got up carelessly and skipped away! It was short-lived, but it totally made my day. I knew before that kids like me, but I've never been approached so innocently and lovingly by a child who didn't know me! I loved it.
Every day in Vienna is a blessing, and has its blessings. Did I mention I was lucky?
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
I'm a survivor of OperaTHON
Tonight I just got back from standing on my feet for almost 5 hours! We decided that we should experience that Staatsoper standing room procedure, since we are still young and able, and since Wagner's "Tannhäuser" opera was playing. Standing room in Vienna is a brilliant idea. We got to see a Wagner opera in a state-of-the-art theater for just 4 Euros! It took us the whole day. After church at noon, we ate some food at Sacher 'Eck, the cafe section of the fancy Hotel Sacher restaurant. At about 2:45pm, we got in line in the standing room entrance of the Staatsoper, where we were led to a line resembling an amusement park line, where people brought little camping fold-out stools to sit on while they waited for their opera ticket. We just sat on the floor for about 2 hours and did our German homework while we waited. At about 4:15, the ticket office opened and we bought our 4Euro tickets to stand on the orchestra level of the house! The waiting wasn't over after that. We then stood in line in the hallway before the house opened, and then people run to get their first choice standing room places. In an old-fashioned way, everyone ties scarves or sweaters over the railing where they want to stand and it is the usher's job to make sure that nobody moves those scarves. After you claim your spot you are free to roam around until 10 minutes before.
At 5:30, just a short time later, the show started. Tannhäuser has some of the most amazing music, and sends chills up and down your spine over and over again. The conductor in the pit was the best conductor I've seen so far here! I loved the way his hands moved so consistently for 4 hours and made so much music! At first, I expected a Wagner opera to be huge, loud singing all the time with a full orchestra score underneath, but this was not the case at all. There were quiet almost recitative-like passages, and even some a cappella music. There was a big chorus as well, who sometimes acted much like a Greek chorus. Although I tended to go in and out of understanding and not understanding the plot, I thoroughly enjoyed the music for all 4 hours, and it seemed to go by quickly. There were some amazing voices. I once heard from my professor Bev Patton that "you know you are hearing a good singer when you forget that they are singing and all you know is what they are feeling." This was so true of everyone in the cast of Tannhäuser tonight. My favorite part was the little boy who came out and sang a simply beautiful a cappella bit and had the voice of an angel!
My heels hurt a bit, but the little bit of pain from standing completely still for 4 hours straight has no effect compared to the feeling after seeing an incredible performance. I remembered how high on life I felt after I finished a performance of silly Marriage of Figaro, and then I try to imagine how the cast must feel after finishing this emotionally, mentally and physically exhausting opera. It was exhausting for me to watch, so to do it must be even greater. I admire these people with all my heart.
At 5:30, just a short time later, the show started. Tannhäuser has some of the most amazing music, and sends chills up and down your spine over and over again. The conductor in the pit was the best conductor I've seen so far here! I loved the way his hands moved so consistently for 4 hours and made so much music! At first, I expected a Wagner opera to be huge, loud singing all the time with a full orchestra score underneath, but this was not the case at all. There were quiet almost recitative-like passages, and even some a cappella music. There was a big chorus as well, who sometimes acted much like a Greek chorus. Although I tended to go in and out of understanding and not understanding the plot, I thoroughly enjoyed the music for all 4 hours, and it seemed to go by quickly. There were some amazing voices. I once heard from my professor Bev Patton that "you know you are hearing a good singer when you forget that they are singing and all you know is what they are feeling." This was so true of everyone in the cast of Tannhäuser tonight. My favorite part was the little boy who came out and sang a simply beautiful a cappella bit and had the voice of an angel!
My heels hurt a bit, but the little bit of pain from standing completely still for 4 hours straight has no effect compared to the feeling after seeing an incredible performance. I remembered how high on life I felt after I finished a performance of silly Marriage of Figaro, and then I try to imagine how the cast must feel after finishing this emotionally, mentally and physically exhausting opera. It was exhausting for me to watch, so to do it must be even greater. I admire these people with all my heart.
Food for thought!
I have been eating too well! I am spoiled. As my German teacher would say, 'ich bin eine Naschkatze,' meaning 'I have such a sweet tooth!" It is true. I have to hold myself back from buying sweets at the grocery store, and even the temptation of just being able to go in pretty much any shop and buy a 60 cent Mozartkugeln to satisfy my Naschkatze!
The food here is more delicious than you can imagine! On this trip that was so well planned for us, they fed us like we were royalty. On Friday, we ate two 3-course meals!! For lunch, we were started with a clear soup with dumplings, the main meal was Wiener Schnitzel with cooked potatoes, potato salad, and cucumber salad, and for dessert we had apfelstrudel. Ugh so full! We realized that we eat through pain, just because it tastes so good!
For dinner, I was adventurous once again. When we arrived at the hotel, we were given keys, and asked, "fish or eggplant?" He had told us that the fish was fresh from the sea, so I decided I should probably try the good stuff! The first course at this meal was a glass of wine with proscuitto ham and a slice of melon. And for the main meal? A fish: head, tail, scales and all, slapped on my plate and staring at me! I got a little nervous. The taste was unlike anything I have ever tasted before and it was delicious. I was so proud of myself for being brave enough to take my fork through the skeleton bones of the fish to get the good meat and actually eat a real fish, fresh off the sea! And for dessert we had a rhubarbstrudel.
On Saturday, even though we woke up still full from Friday's eating escapades, we were treated with a real European breakfast. If you have never experienced what a European breakfast buffet looks like, put it on your list of things to do right now! The scrambled eggs were the best I've ever tasted in my life, and they stayed warm for at least 10 minutes! I love it when my food stays hot. One of my pet peeves is food getting cold. Just to name a few, at the buffet there was bacon, eggs, tea, coffee, juice, nutella, jam, rolls, crissoints, cold cut meats, cheese, fruit, yogurts, veggies, and juice. My favorite is eating the rolls (semmeln) with butter and marmalade on top. Sometimes, dipping it in a bissel (a little) nutella!
In Bad Ischl, Emily and I went to an adorable little cafe and sat outside and I had a raspberry soda and a raspberry-chocolate cake for a late lunch! When we arrived back in Vienna at 8 pm, we went to a pub to watch the USA soccer team lose to Ghana and I ate a quesidilla at this Irish pub. The quesidilla was not like the ones they have at Otto's at Penn State--it was more like a crispy pita pocket with veggies and cheese inside! After I picked out the jalepinos, it was delicious!
Today, (Sunday) I laid off the food a bit more, but we ate Sacher Torte at the famous historical Hotel Sacher right next to the Opera house. Calling all chocolate lovers: Sacher torte may be dangerous.
Don't worry, if this makes you hungry, just ask Emily Janser for some photos! She has taken pictures of exactly every meal she eats! The presentations here are amazing. It is very cute: Emily will not touch her food until she captures it in a photo. She could make a whole album of food!
The food here is more delicious than you can imagine! On this trip that was so well planned for us, they fed us like we were royalty. On Friday, we ate two 3-course meals!! For lunch, we were started with a clear soup with dumplings, the main meal was Wiener Schnitzel with cooked potatoes, potato salad, and cucumber salad, and for dessert we had apfelstrudel. Ugh so full! We realized that we eat through pain, just because it tastes so good!
For dinner, I was adventurous once again. When we arrived at the hotel, we were given keys, and asked, "fish or eggplant?" He had told us that the fish was fresh from the sea, so I decided I should probably try the good stuff! The first course at this meal was a glass of wine with proscuitto ham and a slice of melon. And for the main meal? A fish: head, tail, scales and all, slapped on my plate and staring at me! I got a little nervous. The taste was unlike anything I have ever tasted before and it was delicious. I was so proud of myself for being brave enough to take my fork through the skeleton bones of the fish to get the good meat and actually eat a real fish, fresh off the sea! And for dessert we had a rhubarbstrudel.
On Saturday, even though we woke up still full from Friday's eating escapades, we were treated with a real European breakfast. If you have never experienced what a European breakfast buffet looks like, put it on your list of things to do right now! The scrambled eggs were the best I've ever tasted in my life, and they stayed warm for at least 10 minutes! I love it when my food stays hot. One of my pet peeves is food getting cold. Just to name a few, at the buffet there was bacon, eggs, tea, coffee, juice, nutella, jam, rolls, crissoints, cold cut meats, cheese, fruit, yogurts, veggies, and juice. My favorite is eating the rolls (semmeln) with butter and marmalade on top. Sometimes, dipping it in a bissel (a little) nutella!
In Bad Ischl, Emily and I went to an adorable little cafe and sat outside and I had a raspberry soda and a raspberry-chocolate cake for a late lunch! When we arrived back in Vienna at 8 pm, we went to a pub to watch the USA soccer team lose to Ghana and I ate a quesidilla at this Irish pub. The quesidilla was not like the ones they have at Otto's at Penn State--it was more like a crispy pita pocket with veggies and cheese inside! After I picked out the jalepinos, it was delicious!
Today, (Sunday) I laid off the food a bit more, but we ate Sacher Torte at the famous historical Hotel Sacher right next to the Opera house. Calling all chocolate lovers: Sacher torte may be dangerous.
Don't worry, if this makes you hungry, just ask Emily Janser for some photos! She has taken pictures of exactly every meal she eats! The presentations here are amazing. It is very cute: Emily will not touch her food until she captures it in a photo. She could make a whole album of food!
Adventures in high and low places
I can't believe it has been so long since I last wrote a blog entry! It seems like just yesterday was Thursday, when I sat posting pictures on Facebook and wondering whether I had something interesting enough to say to write a blog entry about. I guess I decided that between Wednesday and Thursday, there wasn't enough to write about. Friday morning we left early, and I left my computer behind, Saturday we came back, went right out again, and at 12:30am all I could do was fall into a deep sleep. Sunday morning I was up early for a much needed skype date, and a tour of the Staatsoper. Which is how we get to Sunday night...the first night since Tuesday that I've really had time to update this thing.
I like taking adventures. My adventures aren't incredibly adventurous, but I like just going in a direction and seeing where it takes me, especially when I am by myself. On Wednesday, I took an adventure and I was in my element: sitting in the sunlight in the grass next to the Mozart stature, listening to a street player play Mozart, and reading my Mozart article in German for class! On Thursday, I took an adventure to the Danube Island to try to find a bike to ride down the island. I was unsuccessful in completing the bike trip (actually, in finding a bike alone!), but no worries, because the last week I am here, I will be finished with German class which means I get to have the entire morning to myself every day of the week until I leave! Bike ride here I come. I want to see if I remember how. I forget the last time I rode a bike. Don't worry mom, I'll get a helmet too.
On Friday, my adventures got more adventurous and more awe-inspiring, however, I did not plan this adventure or take it by myself! This weekend, our IES professors planned a trip for us--an overnight trip to upper Austria, the countryside, where we got to learn about Bruckner and Mahler and the places they lived and worked. I could talk all day about how amazing this trip was, all the new facts and stories I learned, and the beautiful things I saw. If you want to know more, I'll have to tell you in person, but for now, I'll try to highlight the uh....highlights!
After stopping at St. Florian and meeting the organist who plays on the same Harmonium Bruckner played on, and lives in the same quarters, we travelled to quaint village called Steinbach am Attersee. In this "village" there are a few existing things: nature, a hut where Mahler composed his 2nd and 3rd symphonies, and a few beautiful village cottages. Among them, nature was the most beautiful. No words can really describe what this place looked like. If you live in State College, I hope you know that you have never really seen a mountain anywhere near PA. This place had mountains! Our hotel was right in the middle of it all--with the sparking clear lake below us and the ridiculously high mountains behind us. Steinbach am Attersee is notorious for rainy weather, but we were incredibly lucky. We even got to go for a beautiful morning boat ride on the lake on Saturday, while we listened to Mahler's 3rd symphony on the cassette player on the boat! Life couldn't get much better.
Gustav Mahler was such an interesting fellow. I've always told people that my favorite classical music is Mahler's. Something about it makes me want to get out of my seat, makes me want more, and want to know more. Luckily, we had two Mahler scholars travelling with us, and I totally got my fill of information about Mahler, at least for now. Mahler had such a hard time being satisfied with the answers he had to the questions about life. To me, being at Steinbach am Attersee was so fulfilling. I thought to myself, 'nothing in the world can beat this feeling of peace and spirit at this moment.' But Mahler, on the other hand, was the opposite. He sat and sat in the same exact spot I sat this weekend, and just got frustrated with trying to figure out how to bring the world of the spiritual and humanity and connect it with the world of nature. Things didn't work out in his mind. Questions were left unanswered until he died. And you can most certainly know of his frustrations if you simply listen to his music.
We also got to visit Bad Ischl, another lovely part of Austria. I have this wonderful memory of dressing up in a dirndl for my "heritage day" in elementary school. Seeing countless people walking around in dirndls and lederhosen--traditional Austrian clothing--makes me still want more and more of this country. I think I love being in the Austrian countryside more than I love Vienna. (!!!) I never called myself a city girl, and I thought when I met Vienna, I might have a secret love for the city. But no, this weekend has showed me how much I really love nature and, (as Mahler wanted), being 'away from it all.' I love the peacefulness. I can't take my eyes of the mountains, and I take pictures of every different flower I see. In love? I think so.
My adventures since Tuesday didn't stop here. But unfortunately, being on the edge of the Alps did! I am back in Vienna, and still having a wonderful time. I have new topics I want to share, so I may just start a new entry.... Read above!
I like taking adventures. My adventures aren't incredibly adventurous, but I like just going in a direction and seeing where it takes me, especially when I am by myself. On Wednesday, I took an adventure and I was in my element: sitting in the sunlight in the grass next to the Mozart stature, listening to a street player play Mozart, and reading my Mozart article in German for class! On Thursday, I took an adventure to the Danube Island to try to find a bike to ride down the island. I was unsuccessful in completing the bike trip (actually, in finding a bike alone!), but no worries, because the last week I am here, I will be finished with German class which means I get to have the entire morning to myself every day of the week until I leave! Bike ride here I come. I want to see if I remember how. I forget the last time I rode a bike. Don't worry mom, I'll get a helmet too.
On Friday, my adventures got more adventurous and more awe-inspiring, however, I did not plan this adventure or take it by myself! This weekend, our IES professors planned a trip for us--an overnight trip to upper Austria, the countryside, where we got to learn about Bruckner and Mahler and the places they lived and worked. I could talk all day about how amazing this trip was, all the new facts and stories I learned, and the beautiful things I saw. If you want to know more, I'll have to tell you in person, but for now, I'll try to highlight the uh....highlights!
After stopping at St. Florian and meeting the organist who plays on the same Harmonium Bruckner played on, and lives in the same quarters, we travelled to quaint village called Steinbach am Attersee. In this "village" there are a few existing things: nature, a hut where Mahler composed his 2nd and 3rd symphonies, and a few beautiful village cottages. Among them, nature was the most beautiful. No words can really describe what this place looked like. If you live in State College, I hope you know that you have never really seen a mountain anywhere near PA. This place had mountains! Our hotel was right in the middle of it all--with the sparking clear lake below us and the ridiculously high mountains behind us. Steinbach am Attersee is notorious for rainy weather, but we were incredibly lucky. We even got to go for a beautiful morning boat ride on the lake on Saturday, while we listened to Mahler's 3rd symphony on the cassette player on the boat! Life couldn't get much better.
Gustav Mahler was such an interesting fellow. I've always told people that my favorite classical music is Mahler's. Something about it makes me want to get out of my seat, makes me want more, and want to know more. Luckily, we had two Mahler scholars travelling with us, and I totally got my fill of information about Mahler, at least for now. Mahler had such a hard time being satisfied with the answers he had to the questions about life. To me, being at Steinbach am Attersee was so fulfilling. I thought to myself, 'nothing in the world can beat this feeling of peace and spirit at this moment.' But Mahler, on the other hand, was the opposite. He sat and sat in the same exact spot I sat this weekend, and just got frustrated with trying to figure out how to bring the world of the spiritual and humanity and connect it with the world of nature. Things didn't work out in his mind. Questions were left unanswered until he died. And you can most certainly know of his frustrations if you simply listen to his music.
We also got to visit Bad Ischl, another lovely part of Austria. I have this wonderful memory of dressing up in a dirndl for my "heritage day" in elementary school. Seeing countless people walking around in dirndls and lederhosen--traditional Austrian clothing--makes me still want more and more of this country. I think I love being in the Austrian countryside more than I love Vienna. (!!!) I never called myself a city girl, and I thought when I met Vienna, I might have a secret love for the city. But no, this weekend has showed me how much I really love nature and, (as Mahler wanted), being 'away from it all.' I love the peacefulness. I can't take my eyes of the mountains, and I take pictures of every different flower I see. In love? I think so.
My adventures since Tuesday didn't stop here. But unfortunately, being on the edge of the Alps did! I am back in Vienna, and still having a wonderful time. I have new topics I want to share, so I may just start a new entry.... Read above!
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Tuesday night indulgences
Every Tuesday since I've been here, I've gone to see something special. The first Tuesday, our whole group saw Die Fledermaus in standing room. The second, we saw the Wiener Philharmoniker play outside in Schönbrunn Park. The third, Emily and I went on a date to see Renee Fleming. This evening, I went to see an incredible performance of La Traviata, again, on a fabulous date with the beautiful Emily Janser! I enjoy being with one other person, after a week of chaos of being with a large, loud group of people! It is nice to share thoughts with Emily, as we have an incredible amount in common! The past two weeks, when we leave school for the day, we dress up a bit and go to a fancy little cafe and eat a good meal with fresh meat and a glass of wine. Tonight, we ordered dessert and shared a strawberry torte which tasted a little bit like heaven. Or at least, what heaven might taste like!! It is just nice to relax and enjoy a little quieter, fancier evening.
Although being with Emily and bonding with her (she is also my roommate at Penn State) is just wonderful, the real indulgence of the night was embracing the music of Verdi, and melting at the sound of the soprano, Violetta, played by Melba Ramos. Even though we were faced with the challenge of listening to Italian opera, and trying to understand the plot through German subtitles, I loved the dramatic nature of the opera. Basically, in one sentence, La Traviata is about the potency and deadliness of Love. You can only imagine how intense Verdi creates the music to depict this dramatic plot. The singing was absolutely beautiful. I could just tell how much Melba Ramos enjoyed being onstage, alone or not, and singing a difficult score with grace and without flaw. If I would have gone to see this opera 3 weeks ago, I would have struggled with the German subtitles. However, tonight, I realized just how much I have learned in a short period of time, and I understood most of it! I have gained so much vocabulary in just 3 weeks here--I can't imagine what I would pick up if I were here for an entire semester.
In addition to this blog, I have been writing in a journal, so that I can record my thoughts throughout the day, not just when I have something to share with everyone! I have been thinking about how I tend to leave out things about my music classes from this blog. It almost feels as though I'm studying culture, rather than music here. Don't get me wrong. I love my music performance workshop, where I have had many chances to perform for a small group of peers, and I have a vocal coach who is charming, and has some great pointers for me. But I do realize that I am growing more as a person and a thinker than a musician here. I enjoy singing "Wien, Wien, nur du allein," and I enjoy practicing the many, many songs I have been given to work on. But, the structure of the class is built so you get out what you put in, or rather, you get out what your peers put in because much of our class time is spent trying to get constructive criticism from our classmates. Sometimes it is helpful, other times not, but when it is not, it doesn't matter because I was blessed with a faculty at Penn State who taught me how to think critically always and hold myself to a high standard.
Music is still what I love most in the world, and what I am sure I want to do for a lifetime. This is why I call these amazing opera nights/concert nights 'indulgences.' I could get addicted to this. When I come back to America and the day turns to Tuesday night, I am going to think of Vienna and the feeling of wanting to be able to touch the heavenliness of the sounds I am so blessed to hear.
Although being with Emily and bonding with her (she is also my roommate at Penn State) is just wonderful, the real indulgence of the night was embracing the music of Verdi, and melting at the sound of the soprano, Violetta, played by Melba Ramos. Even though we were faced with the challenge of listening to Italian opera, and trying to understand the plot through German subtitles, I loved the dramatic nature of the opera. Basically, in one sentence, La Traviata is about the potency and deadliness of Love. You can only imagine how intense Verdi creates the music to depict this dramatic plot. The singing was absolutely beautiful. I could just tell how much Melba Ramos enjoyed being onstage, alone or not, and singing a difficult score with grace and without flaw. If I would have gone to see this opera 3 weeks ago, I would have struggled with the German subtitles. However, tonight, I realized just how much I have learned in a short period of time, and I understood most of it! I have gained so much vocabulary in just 3 weeks here--I can't imagine what I would pick up if I were here for an entire semester.
In addition to this blog, I have been writing in a journal, so that I can record my thoughts throughout the day, not just when I have something to share with everyone! I have been thinking about how I tend to leave out things about my music classes from this blog. It almost feels as though I'm studying culture, rather than music here. Don't get me wrong. I love my music performance workshop, where I have had many chances to perform for a small group of peers, and I have a vocal coach who is charming, and has some great pointers for me. But I do realize that I am growing more as a person and a thinker than a musician here. I enjoy singing "Wien, Wien, nur du allein," and I enjoy practicing the many, many songs I have been given to work on. But, the structure of the class is built so you get out what you put in, or rather, you get out what your peers put in because much of our class time is spent trying to get constructive criticism from our classmates. Sometimes it is helpful, other times not, but when it is not, it doesn't matter because I was blessed with a faculty at Penn State who taught me how to think critically always and hold myself to a high standard.
Music is still what I love most in the world, and what I am sure I want to do for a lifetime. This is why I call these amazing opera nights/concert nights 'indulgences.' I could get addicted to this. When I come back to America and the day turns to Tuesday night, I am going to think of Vienna and the feeling of wanting to be able to touch the heavenliness of the sounds I am so blessed to hear.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Rain, Rain, go away
The weather must be on our side. It was supposed to be a very rainy, cold weekend here, and it turned out to be quite mild. On Friday, a few of us took a trip to the Belevedere palace. Belevedere means "beautiful view," and we were so lucky to get pictures of it with blue sky in the background. On Saturday we were even blessed with some sunshine, which we felt was especially for us and our plan for the day. We planned to see Grinzing, an area of Vienna in the 19th district, the place where Beethoven wrote his famous Heiligenstadt Testament when he was realizing the suffering of his hearing impairment. The sun came out and allowed us to take a short adventure into the rolling hills of the Viennese woods, spotted with vineyards and adorable private houses. We ate outside at a Heuriger that we found right next to Beethoven's apartment. Heurigers are abundant in Grinzing and it is not hard to find one if you are walking!
I find so often that I am the one that waiters and store keepers look to to communicate to in German. When I am with a group of people, most of them freeze when a waiter approaches and asks us to start ordering. It seems like the cafes and restaurants here make you decide so much quicker! In America, as you all know, the waiter comes a few minutes after you sit down and asks if you need another few minutes to look for what you want. Even when you are reading a menu in your own language, you sometimes need 10 minutes to have everyone ready to order! But most often, the waiter will come and say "Bitte Schön," like, "May I take your order," and then he just stands there. Uhhhh. So I'm normally the one to speak up and either say, "ein moment, bitte" or I just start to order, and hope everyone will have something in mind. It can be a little flustering. So we went to a Heuriger for the first time on our own without the IES people to show us around and pay for our meals. We didn't have a clue what to do! So, I took one for the team and went in and had one of the lovely Fräuleins in a Dirndl to tell me how it works. I really actually like the attention and the challenge of the language barrier. When I'm with a group, I normally speak a mix of English and German. Or I say it in English, then remember the word for it in German, then say it in German. When I'm by myself, I try to say as much German as I possibly can! I'm going to miss it so much when I return home! I only have 3 more weeks here. My gosh, where does time fly to?
Sunday, again, the rain held off. Emily and I went to an English church service, an international non-denominational service. We absolutely fell in love with the church, the service, and even the pastor who was celebrating his last Sunday here with his family. They did a little going away ceremony, and I almost got choked up along with all the regulars in the cozy little church. During the welcome and announcements, they asked visitors to stand and introduce themselves, so Emily and I did. It felt great to be in a place where people spoke our language, sang in our language, and the sermon was so great! We were welcomed right away and invited to sit down next to a nice man who seemed to be alone. People our age came right up to us and introduced themselves and talked to us after the service. As a present to the pastor, this middle aged man sang a glorious version of "You Raise Me Up," and tears came to my eyes. I was so happy to be there. After church, we had a wonderful "afternoon tea" with all the girls at Tee Haas and Haas, a fancy, quiet Tea cafe, where we ate mini sandwiches and tiny cakes and cookies. It felt like the perfect Sunday. And, the rain even held off enough for Emily and I to take a stroll in the oldest zoo in the world in Schönbrunn.
I do wish that this weather would shape up! I took a brisk run down Mariahilfer strasse all the way to the end of it! I hope that one day, it will be a beautiful day to walk home from downtown, and do a little shopping while I'm at it! I am just now leaving to go sit at a cafe to read and journal. Perhaps the rain makes sitting with a cup of coffee and a one-of-a-kind book to read even cozier!
I find so often that I am the one that waiters and store keepers look to to communicate to in German. When I am with a group of people, most of them freeze when a waiter approaches and asks us to start ordering. It seems like the cafes and restaurants here make you decide so much quicker! In America, as you all know, the waiter comes a few minutes after you sit down and asks if you need another few minutes to look for what you want. Even when you are reading a menu in your own language, you sometimes need 10 minutes to have everyone ready to order! But most often, the waiter will come and say "Bitte Schön," like, "May I take your order," and then he just stands there. Uhhhh. So I'm normally the one to speak up and either say, "ein moment, bitte" or I just start to order, and hope everyone will have something in mind. It can be a little flustering. So we went to a Heuriger for the first time on our own without the IES people to show us around and pay for our meals. We didn't have a clue what to do! So, I took one for the team and went in and had one of the lovely Fräuleins in a Dirndl to tell me how it works. I really actually like the attention and the challenge of the language barrier. When I'm with a group, I normally speak a mix of English and German. Or I say it in English, then remember the word for it in German, then say it in German. When I'm by myself, I try to say as much German as I possibly can! I'm going to miss it so much when I return home! I only have 3 more weeks here. My gosh, where does time fly to?
Sunday, again, the rain held off. Emily and I went to an English church service, an international non-denominational service. We absolutely fell in love with the church, the service, and even the pastor who was celebrating his last Sunday here with his family. They did a little going away ceremony, and I almost got choked up along with all the regulars in the cozy little church. During the welcome and announcements, they asked visitors to stand and introduce themselves, so Emily and I did. It felt great to be in a place where people spoke our language, sang in our language, and the sermon was so great! We were welcomed right away and invited to sit down next to a nice man who seemed to be alone. People our age came right up to us and introduced themselves and talked to us after the service. As a present to the pastor, this middle aged man sang a glorious version of "You Raise Me Up," and tears came to my eyes. I was so happy to be there. After church, we had a wonderful "afternoon tea" with all the girls at Tee Haas and Haas, a fancy, quiet Tea cafe, where we ate mini sandwiches and tiny cakes and cookies. It felt like the perfect Sunday. And, the rain even held off enough for Emily and I to take a stroll in the oldest zoo in the world in Schönbrunn.
I do wish that this weather would shape up! I took a brisk run down Mariahilfer strasse all the way to the end of it! I hope that one day, it will be a beautiful day to walk home from downtown, and do a little shopping while I'm at it! I am just now leaving to go sit at a cafe to read and journal. Perhaps the rain makes sitting with a cup of coffee and a one-of-a-kind book to read even cozier!
Thursday, June 17, 2010
A contemplation on shopping culture
This one is dedicated to my sister, Samantha! I have spent a good number of times going in stores and ....wait for this one...SHOPPING. Not going crazy yet, but thoughts run through my head...read on!
During the week, I spend a lot of time at the Palais Corbelli, where I spend an hour and a half in German 4 days a week, and 2 and a half hours in performance workshops 3 times a week. The interval pauses I have in between are short, but I have no patience for sitting in the comfortable student hallway/lounge, like some of the other people taking classes here. (There are other groups at IES, not just the 11 of us music people). I can't stand the fact that I am trapped inside on beautiful sunny days when there is a whole city outside, waiting to be explored! I have probably walked down Kärntnerstrasse (the main street) about a hundred times now, and I still notice new things and new stores every single time I take a stroll! Kärnterstrasse is also the main street I have to walk down to get to the IES center. In the mornings, it is less crowded, but if I go early, I have to dodge large white vans driving wildly on the cobblestone footpaths, holding new packages for all the designer stores, as well as the abundant souvenier shops.
Today, I had a packed schedule from 10am until 5:30, except for a break between 1pm and 2:30. I had planned to practice and write postcards on that short break, but I just can not find the motivation to practice as much as I should! I am kind of getting my butt kicked here, technically and musically. I like it because I feel like I am in a 6 week music intensive program, which is great. My voice teacher is incredible, and I'm noticing things about the way I sing which I have never noticed before. She is very sweet to me, but she doesn't let things go! If I sing one note in not the prettiest way, she'll stop and tell me what to do, how to do it, and it goes on from there. Naturally, I have to stop a lot. In her words, "what you're doing doesn't sound bad, but when you make these tiny adjustments, you sould worlds better!" Well, good, I'm glad! I try to do my best for her. The repertoire I am working on here is not of great importance. I like the songs though--they are cute, and I am considering continuing on with some of them next semester.
Oops, a little off-topic! I didn't practice today. I was distracted when I stepped outside, thinking that I would buy a hoodie. I forgot to bring one with me, and it was around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and cloudy. However, when I stepped outside, it was not even really that cold! I went on an adventure anyway. I don't know really what I do exactly. I guess I just walk. I probably look pretty idiotic, with my huge black bag, staring up at the names of stores on both sides of the street as I walk down the center. Sometimes I pass one store, and then I have a second thought and turn around sharply because I suddenly decide I should see what the store offers. It is quite ridiculous. Today, on my search for an unnecessary hoodie, I pretty much went into every store that looked like it has a good assortment of ladies clothes. Some stores I walked in, and I surveyed the age group of the women roaming around. Average age: 45 probably. And what do I do? I keep looking! Sorry, Samantha! Actually, in one of those stores, I tried on a beautiful light brown blazer costing 150 Euros. I almost fell in love, and then I came back to reality. That was fun. Next store.
Ooo! Zara! I've always heard about it, but never gone in. So I go in and look around. Shopping has begun to tempt me. If you know my previous feelings about shopping, you know that I only shop for things I truly need, and only occasionally for fun, but mostly just looking. I never really have major urges to buy anything, in fact, I normally convince myself out of anything I really like. I have a short attention span for shopping, and you might as well call me a party-pooper when you put me shopping with my sisters! But now, I've experienced something new. I'm in a new city, where I have the attitude that when I leave here, I have no idea when I am coming back, so I don't mind spending my money on things that will help me remember my time living here. When I go in these stores, things call out my name. I even go into shoes stores where the average shoe price is about 85 Euros. And yes, I even tried on a pair of quite adorable, brown shoes. Who AM I?
Maybe shopping is different in Vienna? Maybe I'm going through an attitude change? Maybe I just like being by myself shopping, the feeling of being free, and not being swayed by others' opinions? I don't know, but it's weird!
Right now, I am in Cafe phil, a Viennese coffeehouse near Naschmarkt. The girls I live with are with me, and they have to work on a paper for their music history class--a class which I am thankful for abstaining from! I would describe the atmosphere of this cafe as "chill." The lights are dim, old books on bookcases line the walls, and we are sitting on couches and arm chairs with a low coffee table in between. They are playing alternative, zen and sometimes jazzy background music. I'm on their free internet. What a world I live in. I have a three day weekend ahead of me.
Enjoy summer, east coast! I don't know what to call this season that Vienna is going through!
During the week, I spend a lot of time at the Palais Corbelli, where I spend an hour and a half in German 4 days a week, and 2 and a half hours in performance workshops 3 times a week. The interval pauses I have in between are short, but I have no patience for sitting in the comfortable student hallway/lounge, like some of the other people taking classes here. (There are other groups at IES, not just the 11 of us music people). I can't stand the fact that I am trapped inside on beautiful sunny days when there is a whole city outside, waiting to be explored! I have probably walked down Kärntnerstrasse (the main street) about a hundred times now, and I still notice new things and new stores every single time I take a stroll! Kärnterstrasse is also the main street I have to walk down to get to the IES center. In the mornings, it is less crowded, but if I go early, I have to dodge large white vans driving wildly on the cobblestone footpaths, holding new packages for all the designer stores, as well as the abundant souvenier shops.
Today, I had a packed schedule from 10am until 5:30, except for a break between 1pm and 2:30. I had planned to practice and write postcards on that short break, but I just can not find the motivation to practice as much as I should! I am kind of getting my butt kicked here, technically and musically. I like it because I feel like I am in a 6 week music intensive program, which is great. My voice teacher is incredible, and I'm noticing things about the way I sing which I have never noticed before. She is very sweet to me, but she doesn't let things go! If I sing one note in not the prettiest way, she'll stop and tell me what to do, how to do it, and it goes on from there. Naturally, I have to stop a lot. In her words, "what you're doing doesn't sound bad, but when you make these tiny adjustments, you sould worlds better!" Well, good, I'm glad! I try to do my best for her. The repertoire I am working on here is not of great importance. I like the songs though--they are cute, and I am considering continuing on with some of them next semester.
Oops, a little off-topic! I didn't practice today. I was distracted when I stepped outside, thinking that I would buy a hoodie. I forgot to bring one with me, and it was around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and cloudy. However, when I stepped outside, it was not even really that cold! I went on an adventure anyway. I don't know really what I do exactly. I guess I just walk. I probably look pretty idiotic, with my huge black bag, staring up at the names of stores on both sides of the street as I walk down the center. Sometimes I pass one store, and then I have a second thought and turn around sharply because I suddenly decide I should see what the store offers. It is quite ridiculous. Today, on my search for an unnecessary hoodie, I pretty much went into every store that looked like it has a good assortment of ladies clothes. Some stores I walked in, and I surveyed the age group of the women roaming around. Average age: 45 probably. And what do I do? I keep looking! Sorry, Samantha! Actually, in one of those stores, I tried on a beautiful light brown blazer costing 150 Euros. I almost fell in love, and then I came back to reality. That was fun. Next store.
Ooo! Zara! I've always heard about it, but never gone in. So I go in and look around. Shopping has begun to tempt me. If you know my previous feelings about shopping, you know that I only shop for things I truly need, and only occasionally for fun, but mostly just looking. I never really have major urges to buy anything, in fact, I normally convince myself out of anything I really like. I have a short attention span for shopping, and you might as well call me a party-pooper when you put me shopping with my sisters! But now, I've experienced something new. I'm in a new city, where I have the attitude that when I leave here, I have no idea when I am coming back, so I don't mind spending my money on things that will help me remember my time living here. When I go in these stores, things call out my name. I even go into shoes stores where the average shoe price is about 85 Euros. And yes, I even tried on a pair of quite adorable, brown shoes. Who AM I?
Maybe shopping is different in Vienna? Maybe I'm going through an attitude change? Maybe I just like being by myself shopping, the feeling of being free, and not being swayed by others' opinions? I don't know, but it's weird!
Right now, I am in Cafe phil, a Viennese coffeehouse near Naschmarkt. The girls I live with are with me, and they have to work on a paper for their music history class--a class which I am thankful for abstaining from! I would describe the atmosphere of this cafe as "chill." The lights are dim, old books on bookcases line the walls, and we are sitting on couches and arm chairs with a low coffee table in between. They are playing alternative, zen and sometimes jazzy background music. I'm on their free internet. What a world I live in. I have a three day weekend ahead of me.
Enjoy summer, east coast! I don't know what to call this season that Vienna is going through!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Words or music? You decide.
Have you ever had one of those special moments in your life where you just simply can't believe you are experiencing what you are experiencing? I had one tonight. It happened when I found where our seats were at the Staatsoper to watch Renee Fleming sing in the Strauss opera, Capriccio. We had fabulous seats on the right side of the center section in the balcony. Renee Fleming was unbelieveably beautiful. Did you know she is 51 years old?? She looked amazing, and sounded really lovely.
I am so happy with the timing of this trip. After having conducting classes, being in opera, and finishing music theory and history, I love being able to feel confident in really forming an opinion about the performance, and the opera itself, as well as every musical performance I go to. The performance was incredible in every aspect. I loved the rotating sets and the designer costumes--especially Renee's dress for the final scene, and how the designers used the colors in the costumes to be brought out against the blue floor on the set! There were rotating walls with writing and musical manuscripts on them. Every seat was filled. The applause seemed to last a lifetime! The opera itself, on the other hand, was not that great. The plot was really cliche and not very interesting. At times, it was cute, and at times, funny, but a little drawn out and unecessary also at times. The most time in the plot was taken for Renee to get the idea to ask her two suitors, the poet, and the composer, to collaborate and write an opera together. The theme of the opera was "which is more important, words or music?" Kind of a silly question if you ask me! Of course both are important. Sometimes music says things that words cannot, and sometimes music can take away from the beauty of the language alone. It didn't matter that the plot was slow. I got to see Renee Fleming, hear her beyond-beautiful voice, hear a great horn solo before the final scene, and I got to sit in a great seat in the Staatsoper in Wien!
What an interesting dilemma to have! Renee's character wasted so much energy worrying over which was better, the words, or the music. I've talked a lot about language in my blog so far, and how much I love words. But yet, I am here to study music. As a singer especially, words and music MUST be inseperable, there is no question. But in my own real life, which is really more important to me, if I had to choose? I am not a composer by any means. I love sharing my gift of words in writing notes, letters, messages, emails, and blogs like this. I can only share my gift of music when I have an opportunity to peform. And then what happens? I get nervous, and consequently upset with how I sounded to the listeners. If I could share my music the same way I feel comfortable sharing words with people, my world would be a Utopia.
Language fascinates me. I love thinking about the way people learn languages and how they are so comfortable with a whole different way of moving their lips and tongues to form sounds, and how humans are built to naturally "pick-up" a language if they are immersed in the culture for long enough, at the prime age. I love thinking about the way words can affect people's emotions and actions so much. What about the words in the Bible, or in the Quran, or any other religious book? Those words have completely changed peoples lives. Words can come alive.
Music is the way I want to spend my life. I don't want to be the next Renee Fleming, but I want to share music in the way it was shared with me when I was growing up, only better. Most people need to be trained or taught to be able to look at music, and have it come alive as it would if it were words on a page. But music doesn't need words to make it come alive. Somehow, it captures the pure emotions and transports different people in different ways, some ways I'll never know! I guess I, like in Capriccio, would not be able to choose a lover based on whether he was gifted with words, or gifted with music. It's too hard to contemplate them separately!
Off topic, I cooked a great meal yesterday, and tonight, I went to Cafe Mozart and ate Wiener Schnitzel with Emily, dressed in our finest! I am becoming quite a chef by watching the other girls cook in the hause. I cooked rice, sauteeed some veggies, and even cooked raw chicken in a pan! I put it together to make a delicious stir-fry! Yum! Food is good.
So tired! Should have been asleep a long time ago. If you can, pray for me, because I have a German midterm on Thursday, that I really want to do well on. My german class moves fast, so it takes a lot of concentration to understand some of the things that I haven't thought about in 5 years or so--since high school German!
Guten Nacht!
I am so happy with the timing of this trip. After having conducting classes, being in opera, and finishing music theory and history, I love being able to feel confident in really forming an opinion about the performance, and the opera itself, as well as every musical performance I go to. The performance was incredible in every aspect. I loved the rotating sets and the designer costumes--especially Renee's dress for the final scene, and how the designers used the colors in the costumes to be brought out against the blue floor on the set! There were rotating walls with writing and musical manuscripts on them. Every seat was filled. The applause seemed to last a lifetime! The opera itself, on the other hand, was not that great. The plot was really cliche and not very interesting. At times, it was cute, and at times, funny, but a little drawn out and unecessary also at times. The most time in the plot was taken for Renee to get the idea to ask her two suitors, the poet, and the composer, to collaborate and write an opera together. The theme of the opera was "which is more important, words or music?" Kind of a silly question if you ask me! Of course both are important. Sometimes music says things that words cannot, and sometimes music can take away from the beauty of the language alone. It didn't matter that the plot was slow. I got to see Renee Fleming, hear her beyond-beautiful voice, hear a great horn solo before the final scene, and I got to sit in a great seat in the Staatsoper in Wien!
What an interesting dilemma to have! Renee's character wasted so much energy worrying over which was better, the words, or the music. I've talked a lot about language in my blog so far, and how much I love words. But yet, I am here to study music. As a singer especially, words and music MUST be inseperable, there is no question. But in my own real life, which is really more important to me, if I had to choose? I am not a composer by any means. I love sharing my gift of words in writing notes, letters, messages, emails, and blogs like this. I can only share my gift of music when I have an opportunity to peform. And then what happens? I get nervous, and consequently upset with how I sounded to the listeners. If I could share my music the same way I feel comfortable sharing words with people, my world would be a Utopia.
Language fascinates me. I love thinking about the way people learn languages and how they are so comfortable with a whole different way of moving their lips and tongues to form sounds, and how humans are built to naturally "pick-up" a language if they are immersed in the culture for long enough, at the prime age. I love thinking about the way words can affect people's emotions and actions so much. What about the words in the Bible, or in the Quran, or any other religious book? Those words have completely changed peoples lives. Words can come alive.
Music is the way I want to spend my life. I don't want to be the next Renee Fleming, but I want to share music in the way it was shared with me when I was growing up, only better. Most people need to be trained or taught to be able to look at music, and have it come alive as it would if it were words on a page. But music doesn't need words to make it come alive. Somehow, it captures the pure emotions and transports different people in different ways, some ways I'll never know! I guess I, like in Capriccio, would not be able to choose a lover based on whether he was gifted with words, or gifted with music. It's too hard to contemplate them separately!
Off topic, I cooked a great meal yesterday, and tonight, I went to Cafe Mozart and ate Wiener Schnitzel with Emily, dressed in our finest! I am becoming quite a chef by watching the other girls cook in the hause. I cooked rice, sauteeed some veggies, and even cooked raw chicken in a pan! I put it together to make a delicious stir-fry! Yum! Food is good.
So tired! Should have been asleep a long time ago. If you can, pray for me, because I have a German midterm on Thursday, that I really want to do well on. My german class moves fast, so it takes a lot of concentration to understand some of the things that I haven't thought about in 5 years or so--since high school German!
Guten Nacht!
Saturday, June 12, 2010
A documented adventure
Today there was an adventure! As we were getting on the U-Bahn, headed to an Irish pub to watch the USA/England World Cup Fussball game, the clouds were moving quickly and getting blacker and blacker, and thicker, like smoke. The wind started to pick up too. When we were inside the U-Bahn, debris of leaves and weeks and dirt were flying into our hair and faces. I knew it could only get worse when we had to get off, and of course, I was dreading it.
If you know me well, you know that I will do whatever possible to NOT be outside during a storm. I have survived many storms outside, but I do not like it. We were walking up the stairs to come out of the U-Bahn and the wind held us back, and blinded us by stirring the debris up and off of the ground. I refused to leave, so I hung back. I decided I would be ok by myself, and let the rest of the group go ahead, and let them know that I was going to wait the storm out in the shelter of the U-Bahn staircase at Stadtpark. And so I did. I watched this incredible storm from inside. The lightning was horizontal, and the wind took the rain in sheets on the pavement outside. The U-Bahn stop was flooding below. I saw two girls slip their shoes off and run barefoot out into the storm!
There was a girl about my age standing near me, and she had a trombone case with her. When she kept looking out the doors to see if it was safe to go out, and then she came back, I decided to start talking to her...in English. I have to admit, I was kind of a chicken about speaking German to her. We ended up talking for a while. She is studying Trombone at Vienna University, and is in an academic orchestra. Her part of concert had finished, but she said it was open air, and was supposed to be still going on! She looked down at the U-Bahn station at how the rain was flooding the floor, and said to me, "This is not normal!" She went on to say that how the hot weather is weird, and how this much rain is weird, and how Austria had its first Tornado in April of this year! I was glad she was there. I told her I spoke a little bit of German but I was really bad--but then I spoke German to say that I was studying for 6 weeks, and my family has a connection to Wien, which is why I'm here.
When she left, the rain had gotten "heller" (lighter) and I left soon after. Although the rain had almost completely stopped, the streets were flooded and it was still lightning like crazy. The lightning was right in front of me as I ran down the street, and it was connecting in circles. It wasn't just a flash of lightning--it was more like a surge, that stayed in the sky for a few seconds before it went dark again. I found the pub, and we watched the game in a very pleasant place. Very few people were smoking, and it was air-conditioned! It was fun to be around a lot of people who spoke my language!
I enjoy the challenge of being able to speak German to people here. The best feeling is when I go to the store or a shop, and I speak complete German to them, and they reply in German, and I understand! I have learned an incredible amount while I've been here! I would say that in two weeks, I've probably learned about a half of a semester's worth of what I would have learned by taking a German class at Penn State. It's so much easier to pick up a language when you are hearing it all the time, or seeing it everywhere. For example, yesterday, one of the other girls asked me what der Teller meant. I didn't know the answer, but today, on one of the descriptions in the Hofburg palace tour, it occured to me that 'der Teller' is a plate. There are more exciting words than der Teller. Some of my favorites.... Entschuldigung! Ausgezeichnet! Löffel, Hausübung, langweilig, Ecke, und Schlagobers, to name a few! I taste the consonants on my lips and tongue, every single one of them! Maybe I'm weird for that, but I don't care! I love the language. I love the way Austrians speak, and my German teacher is helping me to recognize what is Austrian German, and what is German German. Sometimes, when I order food at restaurants, I say the whole description on the menu, just to say the words outloud.
I will be seeing the Vienna Boys Choir tomorrow, the Wiener Sängerknaben. I love Sundays, and hopefully the weather will be nicer now that it has rained and cooled off quite a bit!
Love to America tonight! Our team played well!
If you know me well, you know that I will do whatever possible to NOT be outside during a storm. I have survived many storms outside, but I do not like it. We were walking up the stairs to come out of the U-Bahn and the wind held us back, and blinded us by stirring the debris up and off of the ground. I refused to leave, so I hung back. I decided I would be ok by myself, and let the rest of the group go ahead, and let them know that I was going to wait the storm out in the shelter of the U-Bahn staircase at Stadtpark. And so I did. I watched this incredible storm from inside. The lightning was horizontal, and the wind took the rain in sheets on the pavement outside. The U-Bahn stop was flooding below. I saw two girls slip their shoes off and run barefoot out into the storm!
There was a girl about my age standing near me, and she had a trombone case with her. When she kept looking out the doors to see if it was safe to go out, and then she came back, I decided to start talking to her...in English. I have to admit, I was kind of a chicken about speaking German to her. We ended up talking for a while. She is studying Trombone at Vienna University, and is in an academic orchestra. Her part of concert had finished, but she said it was open air, and was supposed to be still going on! She looked down at the U-Bahn station at how the rain was flooding the floor, and said to me, "This is not normal!" She went on to say that how the hot weather is weird, and how this much rain is weird, and how Austria had its first Tornado in April of this year! I was glad she was there. I told her I spoke a little bit of German but I was really bad--but then I spoke German to say that I was studying for 6 weeks, and my family has a connection to Wien, which is why I'm here.
When she left, the rain had gotten "heller" (lighter) and I left soon after. Although the rain had almost completely stopped, the streets were flooded and it was still lightning like crazy. The lightning was right in front of me as I ran down the street, and it was connecting in circles. It wasn't just a flash of lightning--it was more like a surge, that stayed in the sky for a few seconds before it went dark again. I found the pub, and we watched the game in a very pleasant place. Very few people were smoking, and it was air-conditioned! It was fun to be around a lot of people who spoke my language!
I enjoy the challenge of being able to speak German to people here. The best feeling is when I go to the store or a shop, and I speak complete German to them, and they reply in German, and I understand! I have learned an incredible amount while I've been here! I would say that in two weeks, I've probably learned about a half of a semester's worth of what I would have learned by taking a German class at Penn State. It's so much easier to pick up a language when you are hearing it all the time, or seeing it everywhere. For example, yesterday, one of the other girls asked me what der Teller meant. I didn't know the answer, but today, on one of the descriptions in the Hofburg palace tour, it occured to me that 'der Teller' is a plate. There are more exciting words than der Teller. Some of my favorites.... Entschuldigung! Ausgezeichnet! Löffel, Hausübung, langweilig, Ecke, und Schlagobers, to name a few! I taste the consonants on my lips and tongue, every single one of them! Maybe I'm weird for that, but I don't care! I love the language. I love the way Austrians speak, and my German teacher is helping me to recognize what is Austrian German, and what is German German. Sometimes, when I order food at restaurants, I say the whole description on the menu, just to say the words outloud.
I will be seeing the Vienna Boys Choir tomorrow, the Wiener Sängerknaben. I love Sundays, and hopefully the weather will be nicer now that it has rained and cooled off quite a bit!
Love to America tonight! Our team played well!
Friday, June 11, 2010
Wien, Wien, nur du allein!
I haven't written in a while because I have been absolutely exhausted almost every night. Tonight is no exception, and it is late, but I need and want to write and share of all the adventures I have had this past week! Forgive any sentence fragments, repeated words, bad grammar or typos. My writing may be overlooked when I am tired!
Everything is easier now, and comes naturally. I live in Vienna and I belong here. Getting around might be the biggest factor in feeling as if I am a part of this city, not just a visitor. There are still some interesting things about the culture here, which I find different but not different enough that it affects me too much! For example, the past few days have been extremely hot and sticky and sunny. I love the sunshine, but the heat is almost unbearable and it takes more of my energy. Taking more energy away means I need more food and more to drink, which also means that I have to spend more money. There is not really any air-conditioning in Vienna. My apartment is very hot, and it is hard to sleep sometimes. The light comes in at around 4:45am, and the sun doesn't set until around 9:30pm. The days seem extra long, and with the skylights and sheer curtains in my bedroom, I tend to wake up, delirious, at around 5 or 6 am almost everyday. Sometimes I can go back to sleep, but sometimes I wake up and I am wide awake. It makes it hard for me to socialize at night because once it gets dark, I get very tired! In addition to the heat, people here don't shower as much. I guess it saves energy, but it does NOT save me the unpleasant experience of being in standing room for concerts, or in tight, sticky corners of the U-Bahn, and smelling horrible body odors all around me. Gross.
I love the mornings in Vienna. I'm usually by myself in the morning, and the city is fairly quiet. With the exception of a few crowded U-Bahn stops, the mornings are simple and peaceful. I enjoy going ins Cafe, und ein Kipferl und eine Melange bestellen. A Melange is a Viennese coffee with milk in it. I think it is mixed a certain way, but I'm not sure, sorry Sam! :) Freitags are frei. Fridays are free. This morning, I woke up early again and was able to get a good start on the day in the city. Emily and I met up so that we could buy tickets for the Vienna Boys Choir. We also stopped by the Staatsoper box office to see if we could either have seats for Cappricio (with Renee Fleming), or for Tannhäuser (Wagner!). Both shows were either completely sold out, or the tickets were over 150 Euros. We left, and figured we tried, and we could always try for standing room on the day of the opera. But then! We were walking back from the Burgkapelle where we got tickets for the Boys Choir, and to see the Spanish Riding School morning workout, and I stopped by a window which had Staatsoper tickets. It was a touristy information/souvenier place, and I asked the lady there if she had tickets for Cappricio. She happened to have just two tickets left, for only 50 Euros, to see Renee Fleming sing Strauss in Vienna! It made my day, and I told the lady that it did, and she smiled. I basically screamed when I got out of there. I am so so excited for this.
I saw Pierre Boulez, a famous composer and conductor, conduct Debussy and Bartok tonight. His conducting was so interesting to me. It was very conservative in that he did not have a huge amount of contrast, yet he got the contrast that was needed for the music. I wished I could have seen his face while he conducted! He did not use a baton, and his hands were a little floppy and almost puppet like! From far away, he was the cutest old man! I don't know what he is like as a person, other than that his music is unique. He definitely used a 'less is more' outlook on conducting. He was not as physical as the intense conductor of the Verdi Requiem, which we saw on Thursday night. I love "La Mer," the Debussy piece for orchestra which depicts some scenes at sea. I can hear the waves crashing, the water sparkling, and the storm coming. It is very beautiful, and you should listen to it, if you haven't yet!
Aside from the value and the thrill I get from going to see music played live, I think my favorite thing I have seen so far is the Schönbrunn park. Today, I got to see the inside of the incredibly huge palace where the Emporers of Austria used to live. Even Young Mozart once walked in these fabulously decorated rooms. I learned an incredible amount today. I just wonder what it would be like to live in such a large home! It gives me a real idea of how royalty actually live, or lived in history.
You might be wondering what the title of this blog is? It is a lyric to a song. When I started blogging, my grandparents, who come from Wien, began to tell my mother about this song because of how I write so lovingly of Vienna. A funny coincedence happened. My voice teacher, Donna, asked me if I knew of this song, and she started to sing it. I said no, and then I had a realization that the words were the title of the song that my Oma wanted me to listen to. When I told my voice teacher of the coincedence, she gave me the music, and suggested I work on it too! It's a cute song, and has both German and English verses. I might just have to do it at my senior recital in the Fall! 'Wien, Wien, nur du allein,' means 'Vienna, Vienna, only you alone!'
And boy, do I feel that way! What a lucky girl I am!
Everything is easier now, and comes naturally. I live in Vienna and I belong here. Getting around might be the biggest factor in feeling as if I am a part of this city, not just a visitor. There are still some interesting things about the culture here, which I find different but not different enough that it affects me too much! For example, the past few days have been extremely hot and sticky and sunny. I love the sunshine, but the heat is almost unbearable and it takes more of my energy. Taking more energy away means I need more food and more to drink, which also means that I have to spend more money. There is not really any air-conditioning in Vienna. My apartment is very hot, and it is hard to sleep sometimes. The light comes in at around 4:45am, and the sun doesn't set until around 9:30pm. The days seem extra long, and with the skylights and sheer curtains in my bedroom, I tend to wake up, delirious, at around 5 or 6 am almost everyday. Sometimes I can go back to sleep, but sometimes I wake up and I am wide awake. It makes it hard for me to socialize at night because once it gets dark, I get very tired! In addition to the heat, people here don't shower as much. I guess it saves energy, but it does NOT save me the unpleasant experience of being in standing room for concerts, or in tight, sticky corners of the U-Bahn, and smelling horrible body odors all around me. Gross.
I love the mornings in Vienna. I'm usually by myself in the morning, and the city is fairly quiet. With the exception of a few crowded U-Bahn stops, the mornings are simple and peaceful. I enjoy going ins Cafe, und ein Kipferl und eine Melange bestellen. A Melange is a Viennese coffee with milk in it. I think it is mixed a certain way, but I'm not sure, sorry Sam! :) Freitags are frei. Fridays are free. This morning, I woke up early again and was able to get a good start on the day in the city. Emily and I met up so that we could buy tickets for the Vienna Boys Choir. We also stopped by the Staatsoper box office to see if we could either have seats for Cappricio (with Renee Fleming), or for Tannhäuser (Wagner!). Both shows were either completely sold out, or the tickets were over 150 Euros. We left, and figured we tried, and we could always try for standing room on the day of the opera. But then! We were walking back from the Burgkapelle where we got tickets for the Boys Choir, and to see the Spanish Riding School morning workout, and I stopped by a window which had Staatsoper tickets. It was a touristy information/souvenier place, and I asked the lady there if she had tickets for Cappricio. She happened to have just two tickets left, for only 50 Euros, to see Renee Fleming sing Strauss in Vienna! It made my day, and I told the lady that it did, and she smiled. I basically screamed when I got out of there. I am so so excited for this.
I saw Pierre Boulez, a famous composer and conductor, conduct Debussy and Bartok tonight. His conducting was so interesting to me. It was very conservative in that he did not have a huge amount of contrast, yet he got the contrast that was needed for the music. I wished I could have seen his face while he conducted! He did not use a baton, and his hands were a little floppy and almost puppet like! From far away, he was the cutest old man! I don't know what he is like as a person, other than that his music is unique. He definitely used a 'less is more' outlook on conducting. He was not as physical as the intense conductor of the Verdi Requiem, which we saw on Thursday night. I love "La Mer," the Debussy piece for orchestra which depicts some scenes at sea. I can hear the waves crashing, the water sparkling, and the storm coming. It is very beautiful, and you should listen to it, if you haven't yet!
Aside from the value and the thrill I get from going to see music played live, I think my favorite thing I have seen so far is the Schönbrunn park. Today, I got to see the inside of the incredibly huge palace where the Emporers of Austria used to live. Even Young Mozart once walked in these fabulously decorated rooms. I learned an incredible amount today. I just wonder what it would be like to live in such a large home! It gives me a real idea of how royalty actually live, or lived in history.
You might be wondering what the title of this blog is? It is a lyric to a song. When I started blogging, my grandparents, who come from Wien, began to tell my mother about this song because of how I write so lovingly of Vienna. A funny coincedence happened. My voice teacher, Donna, asked me if I knew of this song, and she started to sing it. I said no, and then I had a realization that the words were the title of the song that my Oma wanted me to listen to. When I told my voice teacher of the coincedence, she gave me the music, and suggested I work on it too! It's a cute song, and has both German and English verses. I might just have to do it at my senior recital in the Fall! 'Wien, Wien, nur du allein,' means 'Vienna, Vienna, only you alone!'
And boy, do I feel that way! What a lucky girl I am!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
A mid-summer night's dream
How on earth can I possibly explain what I just experienced? As I was trying to plan in my mind how to go about sharing this awesome night, what I had in mind originally was to completely just talk to Aaron at 50 miles an hour about this concert that I just came back from at Schloss Schönbrunn, the same place where I went for a run on Sunday and was blown away by its beauty. Talking overseas can be difficult sometimes with the cost of phone calls, and the time difference, so for this reason, I am thankful for my blog, so I can just write, and know that I'm sharing with everyone!
Today was a busy day. As soon as classes were over, my intention was to go to Schönbrunn, so that we could all have seats/standing room for tonight's concert. The concert was advertised everywhere. It was on the U-Bahn and in the U-Bahn station, it was on every pole we passed by, store windows, anywhere and everywhere, this was advertised as "Eingang Frei!" Free entrance? Wiener Philharmoniker, one of the best in the world? I think everyone in the population of Vienna, not to mention tourists and visitors, would want to go to this! So I figured that if I were there four hours in advance, I might have a chance of getting a seat.
True. I arrived at 6pm (the concert began at 9pm). Seats were filling up fast and saving seats was forbidden. My 'fam' was lucky enough to have everyone available early enough to sit right in the center of the seating area. The concert was open air, and was for sure the largest "concert hall" I had ever seen or been to. People sat on the hill behind the stage, they filled up like people in a subway train-- in the gravel areas from the castle at the bottom of the hill to the edge of the stage. The progression of attire was interesting to note--the VIPS sat in the front dressed in their finest, while those in the back, close to the castle sat on blankets, drinking beer in their flannel and dreadlocks.
The music began with John Williams' Main Title theme of Star Wars. What an opening, and so incredible to hear from an orchestra who is so accustomed to playing Mozart, Beethoven, Stravinsky, etc! They went on to play a fabulous concert of Strauss, Lizst, Lanner and even the Mars theme by Gustav Holst. A choir came on to sing Otto Nicolai's "The Merry Wives of Windsor." The encore was Strauss' "Wiener Blut," a famous waltz that you probably know even though you might not know the name of it. The conductor didn't even conduct this famous waltz! He moved his head around a little bit! During some of the pieces, they showed pictures of beautiful landmarks in Vienna at night. I could hardly contain myself. Not just for the music itself, but also for the sights that I am able to see in this beautiful country! I get giddy like a girl with a crush on someone!
On Sunday I was taken aback by this park in the beautiful sunshine, and now I've seen it completely transformed into the largest concert hall you can imagine! Thousands of people fell completely silent to the sound of the orchestra playing on a stage that looks like it could be a Dave Matthews concert. Could be, except for a few things-- the outlook on the hill, the flower gardens, the zoo on the right hand side, or the castle with a rich history behind it, to name a few. Everything was beautiful and the weather was perfect, and I kept thinking that either this is a really great dream, or I am a really lucky girl to be able to witness some of the most beautiful things on the earth. What a wonderful blessing. No Euros spent, but so much gained. I don't think I will ever forget tonight. Someday I'll come back, I hope.
Today was a busy day. As soon as classes were over, my intention was to go to Schönbrunn, so that we could all have seats/standing room for tonight's concert. The concert was advertised everywhere. It was on the U-Bahn and in the U-Bahn station, it was on every pole we passed by, store windows, anywhere and everywhere, this was advertised as "Eingang Frei!" Free entrance? Wiener Philharmoniker, one of the best in the world? I think everyone in the population of Vienna, not to mention tourists and visitors, would want to go to this! So I figured that if I were there four hours in advance, I might have a chance of getting a seat.
True. I arrived at 6pm (the concert began at 9pm). Seats were filling up fast and saving seats was forbidden. My 'fam' was lucky enough to have everyone available early enough to sit right in the center of the seating area. The concert was open air, and was for sure the largest "concert hall" I had ever seen or been to. People sat on the hill behind the stage, they filled up like people in a subway train-- in the gravel areas from the castle at the bottom of the hill to the edge of the stage. The progression of attire was interesting to note--the VIPS sat in the front dressed in their finest, while those in the back, close to the castle sat on blankets, drinking beer in their flannel and dreadlocks.
The music began with John Williams' Main Title theme of Star Wars. What an opening, and so incredible to hear from an orchestra who is so accustomed to playing Mozart, Beethoven, Stravinsky, etc! They went on to play a fabulous concert of Strauss, Lizst, Lanner and even the Mars theme by Gustav Holst. A choir came on to sing Otto Nicolai's "The Merry Wives of Windsor." The encore was Strauss' "Wiener Blut," a famous waltz that you probably know even though you might not know the name of it. The conductor didn't even conduct this famous waltz! He moved his head around a little bit! During some of the pieces, they showed pictures of beautiful landmarks in Vienna at night. I could hardly contain myself. Not just for the music itself, but also for the sights that I am able to see in this beautiful country! I get giddy like a girl with a crush on someone!
On Sunday I was taken aback by this park in the beautiful sunshine, and now I've seen it completely transformed into the largest concert hall you can imagine! Thousands of people fell completely silent to the sound of the orchestra playing on a stage that looks like it could be a Dave Matthews concert. Could be, except for a few things-- the outlook on the hill, the flower gardens, the zoo on the right hand side, or the castle with a rich history behind it, to name a few. Everything was beautiful and the weather was perfect, and I kept thinking that either this is a really great dream, or I am a really lucky girl to be able to witness some of the most beautiful things on the earth. What a wonderful blessing. No Euros spent, but so much gained. I don't think I will ever forget tonight. Someday I'll come back, I hope.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
One great view after another
What a beautiful weekend we had here in Vienna! I guess it goes to show that prayers about the weather are heard. :) God is good, and I know it for sure now, if I didn't already before!
Yesterday began early, trying to find open practice rooms. No luck, but I didn't mind because as you know from my last post, I am in love with just walking in Vienna. Doesn't matter whether I know where I'm going or not. When I am on no time schedule with no pressures to find food or find drinks, I love just walking until I get lost and have to pull out my map. Vienna is not like New York in that the city streets are not a grid, making it easier to get lost. We walked down the main street by Stephansdom (Kärnterstrasse) and we (Emily and I) walked until we got to Karlskirche. There, she went back to IES to practice and I hopped on the U-Bahn to go to my voice teacher's apartment, which is not that far away-- it is just on the edge of district 1 in a really nice area. I had a meeting with Donna for the first time for her to hear me sing, get to know me, and schedule weekly lessons. It will be good for me to study this summer and to receive some different views and methods of teaching voice. Actually, the few comments she gave me yesterday were quite similar to what Professor Trost says to me at Penn State. Surprise! :) These six lessons will serve me well I think, so I am excited to get started, and to get ahead on planning my senior recital. Ihr Haus ist auch sehr schön!
The afternoon of Saturday was spent with "the fam" at Naschmarkt and Flohmarkt, about a 10 minute walk from IES. Naschmarkt is this island with busy streets on either side where fresh...everything...is sold!! Fresh fruit, fresh dried fruit, fresh fish, fresh meat, fresh veggies, fresh nuts, fresh everything. And each stand is run by families who stand there and if you stop and look even for a milli-second, they will get your attention by saying something nice about you, or just a friendly "Bitte schön" which kind of translates to "how can I help you." Flohmarkt is at the end of Naschmarkt and is a huge fleamarket filled with peoples junk. It was hard to find things that I would actually want there, but it was cool to experience that bit of culture, and I did end up buying some jewelry and scarves for which I haggled to get the price I wanted! Yay me!
Emily and I decided we wanted to do some touristy things that we didn't want to miss, while everyone else decided to just relax and enjoy the weather by the Danube. So we went to the top bell tower of Stephansdom to see the 21 ton bell, and a great view of the city! Then we went to the Mozarthaus where Mozart lived for the longest period of time in Vienna and where he wrote The Marriage of Figaro! I got to be in the room where he composed Figaro--about 6 manuscript pages per day! We tired ourselves out, stuffing our brains full of information and wonder, and then treated ourselves to Mozartkugeln, a delicious chocolate truffle!
The night closed with a beautiful rendition of Mozart Requiem in a beautiful church called Karlskirche built in the early 1700s. It was on period instruments, which meant that the trombone was especially interesting to look at, and it sounded almost like a French Horn. I loved it.
This morning, I was given the opportunity to see the Wiener Philharmoniker play in concert! This was like a dream come true. I can barely even describe the wonder of one of the greatest musical experiences of my life. Everything was perfect. The violins not only played the music in unison, but they moved in unison, in correspondence to the conductor. The visual element always adds to the sound. For me, being able to see the conductor and see the members of the orchestra made the sound I was hearing more energized, more exciting, more engaging, and therefore easier to connect with. I swear either my mouth was hanging open or I had a goofy smile on my face the entire time. I was in love with the horn section and the double bass section: the horns for their consistently perfect tone, and range of dynamics, and the bass section for their absolutely engaging musical personalities. Shostakovich left tears in my eyes so much that I could barely clap or say anything! The applause at the end lasted about 6 minutes straight, even after the orchestra left the stage. I thought to myself about the idea of a standing ovation. In America, so often when people give standing ovations, they don't really mean it, or, they stand up and look around hesitantly to see if all will follow. In Wien, they have it right. They stand up when they feel moved to stand up. And not even necessarily after the concert is over! Random people stand up throughout the crowd, maybe 4 or 5, stood up just because they were really moved by a certain piece. They were sincere and not hesitant. They were moved greatly, so they stood up--that's all there is to it. Come on America, get with the program. Stand up if you feel so encouraged to, but don't just do it because somebody beside you does it.
I had Palatschinken at a cafe today for lunch, which is a crepe with marmalade in it. The rest of the day was spent doing Deutsch homework on the terrace in the warm sunshine! I feel like I am on vacation! The afternoon was lovely and relaxing. I decided that before I ate dinner, and before the sun went down, I wanted to go for a run, something I haven't done in over a week, that is normally part of my everyday schedule in the summer time! I went on Google maps to map out where I wanted to run to--Schönbrunn park--a park not too far from my apartment. I ended up running for over an hour (!!!!) because I was so taken by the beauty of this park. After running through some mazes and by some fountains, and like a dream, through a never ending canopy of greens, I came upon this hill with the beautiful Schloss Schönbrunn. The hill was so steep, I could barely run anymore, so I slowed to a walk and took a quick glance behind me. I couldn't keep from exclaiming "Oh my gosh" as I turned around to see a breath-taking view of the city below. Like I said, every steep hill is worth it for the view at the top. And so it is true again. I must go back with my camera.
So Vienna continues to excede my expectations, and I got to run about 3-4 miles through a park to get to know the personality of my love affair better.
Yesterday began early, trying to find open practice rooms. No luck, but I didn't mind because as you know from my last post, I am in love with just walking in Vienna. Doesn't matter whether I know where I'm going or not. When I am on no time schedule with no pressures to find food or find drinks, I love just walking until I get lost and have to pull out my map. Vienna is not like New York in that the city streets are not a grid, making it easier to get lost. We walked down the main street by Stephansdom (Kärnterstrasse) and we (Emily and I) walked until we got to Karlskirche. There, she went back to IES to practice and I hopped on the U-Bahn to go to my voice teacher's apartment, which is not that far away-- it is just on the edge of district 1 in a really nice area. I had a meeting with Donna for the first time for her to hear me sing, get to know me, and schedule weekly lessons. It will be good for me to study this summer and to receive some different views and methods of teaching voice. Actually, the few comments she gave me yesterday were quite similar to what Professor Trost says to me at Penn State. Surprise! :) These six lessons will serve me well I think, so I am excited to get started, and to get ahead on planning my senior recital. Ihr Haus ist auch sehr schön!
The afternoon of Saturday was spent with "the fam" at Naschmarkt and Flohmarkt, about a 10 minute walk from IES. Naschmarkt is this island with busy streets on either side where fresh...everything...is sold!! Fresh fruit, fresh dried fruit, fresh fish, fresh meat, fresh veggies, fresh nuts, fresh everything. And each stand is run by families who stand there and if you stop and look even for a milli-second, they will get your attention by saying something nice about you, or just a friendly "Bitte schön" which kind of translates to "how can I help you." Flohmarkt is at the end of Naschmarkt and is a huge fleamarket filled with peoples junk. It was hard to find things that I would actually want there, but it was cool to experience that bit of culture, and I did end up buying some jewelry and scarves for which I haggled to get the price I wanted! Yay me!
Emily and I decided we wanted to do some touristy things that we didn't want to miss, while everyone else decided to just relax and enjoy the weather by the Danube. So we went to the top bell tower of Stephansdom to see the 21 ton bell, and a great view of the city! Then we went to the Mozarthaus where Mozart lived for the longest period of time in Vienna and where he wrote The Marriage of Figaro! I got to be in the room where he composed Figaro--about 6 manuscript pages per day! We tired ourselves out, stuffing our brains full of information and wonder, and then treated ourselves to Mozartkugeln, a delicious chocolate truffle!
The night closed with a beautiful rendition of Mozart Requiem in a beautiful church called Karlskirche built in the early 1700s. It was on period instruments, which meant that the trombone was especially interesting to look at, and it sounded almost like a French Horn. I loved it.
This morning, I was given the opportunity to see the Wiener Philharmoniker play in concert! This was like a dream come true. I can barely even describe the wonder of one of the greatest musical experiences of my life. Everything was perfect. The violins not only played the music in unison, but they moved in unison, in correspondence to the conductor. The visual element always adds to the sound. For me, being able to see the conductor and see the members of the orchestra made the sound I was hearing more energized, more exciting, more engaging, and therefore easier to connect with. I swear either my mouth was hanging open or I had a goofy smile on my face the entire time. I was in love with the horn section and the double bass section: the horns for their consistently perfect tone, and range of dynamics, and the bass section for their absolutely engaging musical personalities. Shostakovich left tears in my eyes so much that I could barely clap or say anything! The applause at the end lasted about 6 minutes straight, even after the orchestra left the stage. I thought to myself about the idea of a standing ovation. In America, so often when people give standing ovations, they don't really mean it, or, they stand up and look around hesitantly to see if all will follow. In Wien, they have it right. They stand up when they feel moved to stand up. And not even necessarily after the concert is over! Random people stand up throughout the crowd, maybe 4 or 5, stood up just because they were really moved by a certain piece. They were sincere and not hesitant. They were moved greatly, so they stood up--that's all there is to it. Come on America, get with the program. Stand up if you feel so encouraged to, but don't just do it because somebody beside you does it.
I had Palatschinken at a cafe today for lunch, which is a crepe with marmalade in it. The rest of the day was spent doing Deutsch homework on the terrace in the warm sunshine! I feel like I am on vacation! The afternoon was lovely and relaxing. I decided that before I ate dinner, and before the sun went down, I wanted to go for a run, something I haven't done in over a week, that is normally part of my everyday schedule in the summer time! I went on Google maps to map out where I wanted to run to--Schönbrunn park--a park not too far from my apartment. I ended up running for over an hour (!!!!) because I was so taken by the beauty of this park. After running through some mazes and by some fountains, and like a dream, through a never ending canopy of greens, I came upon this hill with the beautiful Schloss Schönbrunn. The hill was so steep, I could barely run anymore, so I slowed to a walk and took a quick glance behind me. I couldn't keep from exclaiming "Oh my gosh" as I turned around to see a breath-taking view of the city below. Like I said, every steep hill is worth it for the view at the top. And so it is true again. I must go back with my camera.
So Vienna continues to excede my expectations, and I got to run about 3-4 miles through a park to get to know the personality of my love affair better.
Friday, June 4, 2010
Can't help falling in love...
Sorry Aaron, if you are reading this! I think I am falling in love. So sorry, but I just can't stop myself from hyperventilating a little bit when I walk down the streets of Vienna by myself, and feel the exhilaration of being free, independent, unknown, and entirely, utterly happy. I just can't stop from breathing in and soaking up the moment when the cool air of another U-Bahn is passing by in the underground. I love the way the night shines bright and brings out the life of a city. I love the charming elderly Austrians, and how they smirk a little when I speak German with my obvious American accent. I love Heurigens, and feeling connected to my heritage. And, I just cannot stop myself from saying every street name, every road sign, every store name outloud to myself in German. The ring of the pure vowels of the German language light a spark in me, and I just. can't. stop. I listen to every conversation I possibly can, hoping to catch something funny to laugh at, or maybe some juicy gossip to chew on.... I'm falling in love. Falling.
I'm sort of making a joke, because I have a boyfriend who I love dearly and miss dearly who has been in New Zealand for the past few weeks (Happy 18 months, Aaron!), but also, I'm being serious. Today, I was talking to one of my professors casually as we walked through a village, and he asked me if I ever considered living here at least for a while. I didn't have an answer to that question, aber vielliecht mein Traum ist in Wien wohnen! Oops. :)
My last entry was on Wednesday. Thursday was a day full of class, and getting to know and love the Palais Corbelli, the palace where I go to school! I have to practice a lot because I have new repertoire that I am trying to get into performance shape in 6 weeks, which is kind of short. (Now it's only five! Oh gosh.) Our voice performance workshop is absolutely wonderful and I love Mr. Russell Ryan, who is "not a trained voice teacher" but has plenty of wisdom and helpful things to offer us. I was able to get ahold of my actual private lesson teacher, Donna, and I am meeting with her on Saturday morning.
Today, we took a day trip to Steirmark, to the city of Mürzzuschlag, where Brahms lived and composed during the summers because the "air is fresher." The drive was beautiful. One moment we are going through a tunnel 500 meters long, and then we come out of the tunnel to see Sound of Music-esque rolling green hills, mountains, fields, vineyards, cattle, castles and cottages, among other things! Look for pictures, please! Caution: these pictures may be convincing enough for you to come and visit Austria. I could see why Brahms said (approx. translation) "here, the Melodies fly, so be careful not to step on them!" I totally get it. I was sure that while we were driving past these sights of fresh Austrian land that there should be a symphony soundtrack playing in the background. Literally, these mountains have music in them. Thank God for that gift.
After five days of all rain and no sun, finally we saw some blue sky and felt the warmth of the sun. And what a perfect day for it! We climbed up some hills-- and in Austria countryside, when you climb up a steep hill, you know it will all be worth it for the view at the top. And so it was. So many memorable moments today!
I've been here for a week now, it is crazy. I have adjusted just fine, finding a coffee shop I can go to in the morning, getting the hang of handling the Euro and Euro cents, and even working the U-Bahn by myself (taking a few wrong turns, in daylight of course!). The smoking still bothers me, and I am glad that the weather is warm and nice enough that I can sit outside at cafes if I need to now. Another major difference is that I am cooking for myself and buying groceries in a store where everything is in German! I had to look up every word of the directions of my ravioli in order to cook it, but I made it happen. I am getting ideas from all my housemates at dinner time when we all cook different things for ourselves at the same time. Have any good recipes? Let me know! One last major difference that is shocking to me is the public displays of affection here! Two people in love do NOT think twice about taking their time to share a long kiss on the U-Bahn, or even between pieces in a concert! A little weird, but everyone does it, and it is accepted. Major culture difference.
So now begins my love affair with the city of Vienna. No worries, it's not cheating because my heart has someone else in mind. But this city has opportunities running rampant for me, and I can't wait to catch every single one I can. I'm trying my best to make the most of this weekend. After this weekend, 1/6 of my time here is over. Prost! (Cheers!) To making the next 5 weeks go as slow as possible!
I'm sort of making a joke, because I have a boyfriend who I love dearly and miss dearly who has been in New Zealand for the past few weeks (Happy 18 months, Aaron!), but also, I'm being serious. Today, I was talking to one of my professors casually as we walked through a village, and he asked me if I ever considered living here at least for a while. I didn't have an answer to that question, aber vielliecht mein Traum ist in Wien wohnen! Oops. :)
My last entry was on Wednesday. Thursday was a day full of class, and getting to know and love the Palais Corbelli, the palace where I go to school! I have to practice a lot because I have new repertoire that I am trying to get into performance shape in 6 weeks, which is kind of short. (Now it's only five! Oh gosh.) Our voice performance workshop is absolutely wonderful and I love Mr. Russell Ryan, who is "not a trained voice teacher" but has plenty of wisdom and helpful things to offer us. I was able to get ahold of my actual private lesson teacher, Donna, and I am meeting with her on Saturday morning.
Today, we took a day trip to Steirmark, to the city of Mürzzuschlag, where Brahms lived and composed during the summers because the "air is fresher." The drive was beautiful. One moment we are going through a tunnel 500 meters long, and then we come out of the tunnel to see Sound of Music-esque rolling green hills, mountains, fields, vineyards, cattle, castles and cottages, among other things! Look for pictures, please! Caution: these pictures may be convincing enough for you to come and visit Austria. I could see why Brahms said (approx. translation) "here, the Melodies fly, so be careful not to step on them!" I totally get it. I was sure that while we were driving past these sights of fresh Austrian land that there should be a symphony soundtrack playing in the background. Literally, these mountains have music in them. Thank God for that gift.
After five days of all rain and no sun, finally we saw some blue sky and felt the warmth of the sun. And what a perfect day for it! We climbed up some hills-- and in Austria countryside, when you climb up a steep hill, you know it will all be worth it for the view at the top. And so it was. So many memorable moments today!
I've been here for a week now, it is crazy. I have adjusted just fine, finding a coffee shop I can go to in the morning, getting the hang of handling the Euro and Euro cents, and even working the U-Bahn by myself (taking a few wrong turns, in daylight of course!). The smoking still bothers me, and I am glad that the weather is warm and nice enough that I can sit outside at cafes if I need to now. Another major difference is that I am cooking for myself and buying groceries in a store where everything is in German! I had to look up every word of the directions of my ravioli in order to cook it, but I made it happen. I am getting ideas from all my housemates at dinner time when we all cook different things for ourselves at the same time. Have any good recipes? Let me know! One last major difference that is shocking to me is the public displays of affection here! Two people in love do NOT think twice about taking their time to share a long kiss on the U-Bahn, or even between pieces in a concert! A little weird, but everyone does it, and it is accepted. Major culture difference.
So now begins my love affair with the city of Vienna. No worries, it's not cheating because my heart has someone else in mind. But this city has opportunities running rampant for me, and I can't wait to catch every single one I can. I'm trying my best to make the most of this weekend. After this weekend, 1/6 of my time here is over. Prost! (Cheers!) To making the next 5 weeks go as slow as possible!
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
My new addiction: speaking German
Hallo! I'm starting to speak so much in German now. I almost can't stop myself. It's like an addiction. I feel kind of bad for the people in my group because when we hang out, I'll answer their questions in German or I will just randomly say my thoughts in German! I think the addiction started today when I started off my free morning finding a cafe to do some reading and journaling. When I go in the stores, the friendly, adorable Austrian cafe workers say "Grüss Gott," which means, "greetings from God." It makes me smile every time, and then I do everything to keep from saying my American, "Hi!" back. I am the quiet girl who is by herself. I'm doing by best to blend in here, and not be another American tourist. I'm living in Vienna!!! If I don't know how to answer in German and I'm by myself, I just don't talk. But! Today I entered this cafe with confidence, I asked to sit down, and ordered my food, and even asked the waitress what was good for Frühstuck (breakfast)! No English speaking for me this morning! And she continued to speak German to me, and I understood! So I considered that a success.
I started my classes yesterday. I walked into German class and sat down practically as the teacher took off speaking very fast German! I was put in an intermediate class for some reason, even though I thought I wasn't, so I decided to try it out. There are only three people in this class, all from our music group. Our teacher, Andrea, is young, pretty, and nice, but this German class will be a challenge for me. I really don't know very much about grammar rules, and my vocabulary is getting better by the hour. I keep remembering words that I thought I forgot all about! I haven't taken German since my sophomore year of high school. It's been a while. I like challenges though, and I'm up for learning fast, especially since I am not taking the music history course. Most of the people in my group paid extra to take 9 credits, a music history course, but I am so glad that I have some free time to roam the streets or practice or do homework during that time.
The music performance workshop is going to be incredible. I was given the name of a voice teacher who I have to reach personally by phone to find out when she can schedule me, and where she lives. I was also handed about 6 different pieces of music to work on, including a few chamber works! Emily and I were given the Richard Strauss "Alphorn" piece for voice, horn and piano, and we are supposed to be able to run through it on Thursday! Ahhh! Practice rooms for me! It's a weird thing to have practice rooms available in Vienna. We have access to three different buildings in the city where we can use the practice facilities. I like practicing in Vienna. It feels good to sing in a new place, but I am very unfocused! I think I am overstimulated with so much of what I am interested in.
I'm not weird here. No, seriously! In America, people would look at you weird if you said you liked classical music and that's what you devote all your time to, but here in Austria, the majority of people like classical music. It plays in cafes, in the streets, and people of all ages enjoy the opera. We saw a little boy stare with gleaming eyes for 3 hours, just tonight! I just got back from the Volksoper in Wien. We saw Strauss' "Die Fledermaus" for only 3 Euros! We got standing room tickets about an hour before, went to a famous place called Figlmüllers for dinner, and then we stood in the back of the orchestra level at the opera! What an experience! It was fabulous. I especially am taken by the beautiful costumes and sets, as well as the opera voices!
Yesterday, I went to a museum around the corner from the IES center (where all my classes are, it is a palace!) called Haus der Musik. I was amazed with it. I especially liked the entire floor where I could walk around and each room I entered into was devoted to a different Viennese composer: Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Mahler, Strauss, Schönberg and even Berg! I loved it. Even though I'm not in the history class, this was like a crash course for me. It was interactive, and at the end, I got to virtually conduct the Wiener Philharmoniker. The baton was a stick with a laser at the end of it, and I could only control tempo. Fun, and a good exercize! (I guess I don't have perfect rhythm, because it was NOT the same tempo throughout!)
I will try to post pictures soon, but they might be on Facebook. If you want to see them, and you don't have a facebook, look for a link on a blog, so you can see the album. You won't have to sign up for Facebook to see them.
I even think in German now! I had to stop myself from writing some sentences in German. Forgive any slips if there are any. It is late, and I still have homework to do. Guten Nacht!
I started my classes yesterday. I walked into German class and sat down practically as the teacher took off speaking very fast German! I was put in an intermediate class for some reason, even though I thought I wasn't, so I decided to try it out. There are only three people in this class, all from our music group. Our teacher, Andrea, is young, pretty, and nice, but this German class will be a challenge for me. I really don't know very much about grammar rules, and my vocabulary is getting better by the hour. I keep remembering words that I thought I forgot all about! I haven't taken German since my sophomore year of high school. It's been a while. I like challenges though, and I'm up for learning fast, especially since I am not taking the music history course. Most of the people in my group paid extra to take 9 credits, a music history course, but I am so glad that I have some free time to roam the streets or practice or do homework during that time.
The music performance workshop is going to be incredible. I was given the name of a voice teacher who I have to reach personally by phone to find out when she can schedule me, and where she lives. I was also handed about 6 different pieces of music to work on, including a few chamber works! Emily and I were given the Richard Strauss "Alphorn" piece for voice, horn and piano, and we are supposed to be able to run through it on Thursday! Ahhh! Practice rooms for me! It's a weird thing to have practice rooms available in Vienna. We have access to three different buildings in the city where we can use the practice facilities. I like practicing in Vienna. It feels good to sing in a new place, but I am very unfocused! I think I am overstimulated with so much of what I am interested in.
I'm not weird here. No, seriously! In America, people would look at you weird if you said you liked classical music and that's what you devote all your time to, but here in Austria, the majority of people like classical music. It plays in cafes, in the streets, and people of all ages enjoy the opera. We saw a little boy stare with gleaming eyes for 3 hours, just tonight! I just got back from the Volksoper in Wien. We saw Strauss' "Die Fledermaus" for only 3 Euros! We got standing room tickets about an hour before, went to a famous place called Figlmüllers for dinner, and then we stood in the back of the orchestra level at the opera! What an experience! It was fabulous. I especially am taken by the beautiful costumes and sets, as well as the opera voices!
Yesterday, I went to a museum around the corner from the IES center (where all my classes are, it is a palace!) called Haus der Musik. I was amazed with it. I especially liked the entire floor where I could walk around and each room I entered into was devoted to a different Viennese composer: Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Mahler, Strauss, Schönberg and even Berg! I loved it. Even though I'm not in the history class, this was like a crash course for me. It was interactive, and at the end, I got to virtually conduct the Wiener Philharmoniker. The baton was a stick with a laser at the end of it, and I could only control tempo. Fun, and a good exercize! (I guess I don't have perfect rhythm, because it was NOT the same tempo throughout!)
I will try to post pictures soon, but they might be on Facebook. If you want to see them, and you don't have a facebook, look for a link on a blog, so you can see the album. You won't have to sign up for Facebook to see them.
I even think in German now! I had to stop myself from writing some sentences in German. Forgive any slips if there are any. It is late, and I still have homework to do. Guten Nacht!
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