I guess the parentheses in the title is an afterthought that should have been my first thought. Vienna is just one huge city full of blessings! I feel like it is Europe's best kept secret. Not many appreciate Vienna the same way they know to appreciate Paris, London and Rome. Most of the tourists here are German-speaking. This is not a bad thing for me! It means I get to feel more a part of the culture here when everyone around me is speaking German, whether they are from Wien or not. I'm just starting to hear dialects in peoples' German. You must have quite an ear for the Austrian German to understand when someone is speaking a dialect, and part of this comes from getting to listen to my Oma and Opa speak true Austrian German to one another every once in a while! I am so excited to come back to the states and feel more confident in speaking German to my family.
Vienna is a blessing. As soon as I walk outside every day, I feel something come over me that just makes me happier than ever. When I sit outside, and take in the fresh air, I know that this city, reaching way back into history, has truly been blessed with something unique and special. Maybe I can't put my finger on exactly what it is? You would have to come and see for yourself. (Which I encourage you to do, if you are reading this!)
In the mood for some mood-brighteners? I have a few for you.
We will begin on Monday night. When I arrived back at my apartment from my Monday classes, my roommate Claire was in the mood to do something and go somewhere, and she suggested that we go to a jazz club--the building there has been dated back to about year 980! We opened the somewhat shady looking door, and it was like opening up a door in Hogwarts castle! It was love at first sight. Old bricks and a dome shaped ceiling of bricks made up a one room cellar kind of jazz club. We went down the stairs, paid our 18 Euros to see the American swing band, the Hayes Kavanagh All-Star band, and we made our way to the only table available for the 5 of us who trekked out on a Monday night! Time here seems to have stood still. It felt as if we had travelled back in time to an old jazz swing band performance at a bar. We were the youngest there, by far, so much that people were kind of staring at us. We sat there for 3 and a half hours of great jazz music and I was absolutely thrilled with the talent and pure enjoyment we just experienced. I could go into more detail, but let's just say we were about 3 feet away from the trombone player who was glad to speak English to us throughout the performance, and the piano player was from New York and did his undergrad with Renee Fleming, and served often as her accompanist! Hmm, small world!!
Well that was just the background story--here is the mood brightener: After the show was over, the band members left, except for the old guy who played the bass and introduced all the songs in German. He came up to our table and pulled up a chair from the stage. He sat down and told us all about how he is so happy to have fun with a band of all musicians, himself being the only one who has a day job apart from playing bass. He was an attorney at law and had clients in Europe for whom they were scheduled to play private parties. He organized the whole 10 day tour for the group, and the group is named after him. He asked us what brought us out to the club that day. After we told him, he said in his gentle yet half-mumbled voice, "Well, I want to reimburse you for paying that 18 euros at the door. I know what it was like to be a student. I was there once." At that, and ignoring our shouts of surprise and refusal, he laid two 50 Euro bills on the table and asked non-chalantly for a ten back. 18x5=90 Euros. That was quick math for an elderly man with a few beers in him! We refused for a bit and simply stared at the money on the table, but then I thought this: 'I know how it feels to do something nice for some strangers. He is an attorney. He has money. We should let him do this, and thank him.' And so I gave him a ten, shook his hand a few times, and thanked God for the great thoughtful man with musical talent, who we will probably never see again.
Yesterday, my mood brightener was a simple pleasure: an old black and white movie filmed in the 1940's and shown weekly at this adorable theater on the Ring by the Opera. The movie was called "The Third Man" and was filmed completely in Vienna. It was fun to identify some of the places in the movie where we have walked over and over again! Yet another Tuesday night indulgence with Emily Janser is completed. We treated ourselves to Gelato, specifically Rocher Ferraro gelato--another gift from God! Thank you for ice cream!
Today, my day was made by a child. In my mind, the best blessings of life can be found in children. I love watching children interact and being with children. Vienna is a good place to do this, considering the numerous school groups who walk around the city together with clipboards--I think they have to go on some kind of scavenger hunt, I don't know! I like watching them and listening to the way they talk. But today, I was nowhere near a group of school children. I got up early and before class, I sat in the freshly mown grass in Stadtpark, near the famous statue of Strauss. The section of green grass was completely empty, except for a few sitting in the shade around the perimeter. Unexpectedly, this beautiful little blonde girl, about 3 years old, does the little waddle-run towards me, and when I expect her to stop a distance away, she keeps coming, and sits on her knees literally inches from me. I take out my headphones and look at her cute smile and blue eyes and I try to speak German to her, but all she had to offer was her beautiful smile. I looked around and her father came over and said in German, "look, she made a friend" and he had to call her name a few times before she got up carelessly and skipped away! It was short-lived, but it totally made my day. I knew before that kids like me, but I've never been approached so innocently and lovingly by a child who didn't know me! I loved it.
Every day in Vienna is a blessing, and has its blessings. Did I mention I was lucky?
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
I'm a survivor of OperaTHON
Tonight I just got back from standing on my feet for almost 5 hours! We decided that we should experience that Staatsoper standing room procedure, since we are still young and able, and since Wagner's "Tannhäuser" opera was playing. Standing room in Vienna is a brilliant idea. We got to see a Wagner opera in a state-of-the-art theater for just 4 Euros! It took us the whole day. After church at noon, we ate some food at Sacher 'Eck, the cafe section of the fancy Hotel Sacher restaurant. At about 2:45pm, we got in line in the standing room entrance of the Staatsoper, where we were led to a line resembling an amusement park line, where people brought little camping fold-out stools to sit on while they waited for their opera ticket. We just sat on the floor for about 2 hours and did our German homework while we waited. At about 4:15, the ticket office opened and we bought our 4Euro tickets to stand on the orchestra level of the house! The waiting wasn't over after that. We then stood in line in the hallway before the house opened, and then people run to get their first choice standing room places. In an old-fashioned way, everyone ties scarves or sweaters over the railing where they want to stand and it is the usher's job to make sure that nobody moves those scarves. After you claim your spot you are free to roam around until 10 minutes before.
At 5:30, just a short time later, the show started. Tannhäuser has some of the most amazing music, and sends chills up and down your spine over and over again. The conductor in the pit was the best conductor I've seen so far here! I loved the way his hands moved so consistently for 4 hours and made so much music! At first, I expected a Wagner opera to be huge, loud singing all the time with a full orchestra score underneath, but this was not the case at all. There were quiet almost recitative-like passages, and even some a cappella music. There was a big chorus as well, who sometimes acted much like a Greek chorus. Although I tended to go in and out of understanding and not understanding the plot, I thoroughly enjoyed the music for all 4 hours, and it seemed to go by quickly. There were some amazing voices. I once heard from my professor Bev Patton that "you know you are hearing a good singer when you forget that they are singing and all you know is what they are feeling." This was so true of everyone in the cast of Tannhäuser tonight. My favorite part was the little boy who came out and sang a simply beautiful a cappella bit and had the voice of an angel!
My heels hurt a bit, but the little bit of pain from standing completely still for 4 hours straight has no effect compared to the feeling after seeing an incredible performance. I remembered how high on life I felt after I finished a performance of silly Marriage of Figaro, and then I try to imagine how the cast must feel after finishing this emotionally, mentally and physically exhausting opera. It was exhausting for me to watch, so to do it must be even greater. I admire these people with all my heart.
At 5:30, just a short time later, the show started. Tannhäuser has some of the most amazing music, and sends chills up and down your spine over and over again. The conductor in the pit was the best conductor I've seen so far here! I loved the way his hands moved so consistently for 4 hours and made so much music! At first, I expected a Wagner opera to be huge, loud singing all the time with a full orchestra score underneath, but this was not the case at all. There were quiet almost recitative-like passages, and even some a cappella music. There was a big chorus as well, who sometimes acted much like a Greek chorus. Although I tended to go in and out of understanding and not understanding the plot, I thoroughly enjoyed the music for all 4 hours, and it seemed to go by quickly. There were some amazing voices. I once heard from my professor Bev Patton that "you know you are hearing a good singer when you forget that they are singing and all you know is what they are feeling." This was so true of everyone in the cast of Tannhäuser tonight. My favorite part was the little boy who came out and sang a simply beautiful a cappella bit and had the voice of an angel!
My heels hurt a bit, but the little bit of pain from standing completely still for 4 hours straight has no effect compared to the feeling after seeing an incredible performance. I remembered how high on life I felt after I finished a performance of silly Marriage of Figaro, and then I try to imagine how the cast must feel after finishing this emotionally, mentally and physically exhausting opera. It was exhausting for me to watch, so to do it must be even greater. I admire these people with all my heart.
Food for thought!
I have been eating too well! I am spoiled. As my German teacher would say, 'ich bin eine Naschkatze,' meaning 'I have such a sweet tooth!" It is true. I have to hold myself back from buying sweets at the grocery store, and even the temptation of just being able to go in pretty much any shop and buy a 60 cent Mozartkugeln to satisfy my Naschkatze!
The food here is more delicious than you can imagine! On this trip that was so well planned for us, they fed us like we were royalty. On Friday, we ate two 3-course meals!! For lunch, we were started with a clear soup with dumplings, the main meal was Wiener Schnitzel with cooked potatoes, potato salad, and cucumber salad, and for dessert we had apfelstrudel. Ugh so full! We realized that we eat through pain, just because it tastes so good!
For dinner, I was adventurous once again. When we arrived at the hotel, we were given keys, and asked, "fish or eggplant?" He had told us that the fish was fresh from the sea, so I decided I should probably try the good stuff! The first course at this meal was a glass of wine with proscuitto ham and a slice of melon. And for the main meal? A fish: head, tail, scales and all, slapped on my plate and staring at me! I got a little nervous. The taste was unlike anything I have ever tasted before and it was delicious. I was so proud of myself for being brave enough to take my fork through the skeleton bones of the fish to get the good meat and actually eat a real fish, fresh off the sea! And for dessert we had a rhubarbstrudel.
On Saturday, even though we woke up still full from Friday's eating escapades, we were treated with a real European breakfast. If you have never experienced what a European breakfast buffet looks like, put it on your list of things to do right now! The scrambled eggs were the best I've ever tasted in my life, and they stayed warm for at least 10 minutes! I love it when my food stays hot. One of my pet peeves is food getting cold. Just to name a few, at the buffet there was bacon, eggs, tea, coffee, juice, nutella, jam, rolls, crissoints, cold cut meats, cheese, fruit, yogurts, veggies, and juice. My favorite is eating the rolls (semmeln) with butter and marmalade on top. Sometimes, dipping it in a bissel (a little) nutella!
In Bad Ischl, Emily and I went to an adorable little cafe and sat outside and I had a raspberry soda and a raspberry-chocolate cake for a late lunch! When we arrived back in Vienna at 8 pm, we went to a pub to watch the USA soccer team lose to Ghana and I ate a quesidilla at this Irish pub. The quesidilla was not like the ones they have at Otto's at Penn State--it was more like a crispy pita pocket with veggies and cheese inside! After I picked out the jalepinos, it was delicious!
Today, (Sunday) I laid off the food a bit more, but we ate Sacher Torte at the famous historical Hotel Sacher right next to the Opera house. Calling all chocolate lovers: Sacher torte may be dangerous.
Don't worry, if this makes you hungry, just ask Emily Janser for some photos! She has taken pictures of exactly every meal she eats! The presentations here are amazing. It is very cute: Emily will not touch her food until she captures it in a photo. She could make a whole album of food!
The food here is more delicious than you can imagine! On this trip that was so well planned for us, they fed us like we were royalty. On Friday, we ate two 3-course meals!! For lunch, we were started with a clear soup with dumplings, the main meal was Wiener Schnitzel with cooked potatoes, potato salad, and cucumber salad, and for dessert we had apfelstrudel. Ugh so full! We realized that we eat through pain, just because it tastes so good!
For dinner, I was adventurous once again. When we arrived at the hotel, we were given keys, and asked, "fish or eggplant?" He had told us that the fish was fresh from the sea, so I decided I should probably try the good stuff! The first course at this meal was a glass of wine with proscuitto ham and a slice of melon. And for the main meal? A fish: head, tail, scales and all, slapped on my plate and staring at me! I got a little nervous. The taste was unlike anything I have ever tasted before and it was delicious. I was so proud of myself for being brave enough to take my fork through the skeleton bones of the fish to get the good meat and actually eat a real fish, fresh off the sea! And for dessert we had a rhubarbstrudel.
On Saturday, even though we woke up still full from Friday's eating escapades, we were treated with a real European breakfast. If you have never experienced what a European breakfast buffet looks like, put it on your list of things to do right now! The scrambled eggs were the best I've ever tasted in my life, and they stayed warm for at least 10 minutes! I love it when my food stays hot. One of my pet peeves is food getting cold. Just to name a few, at the buffet there was bacon, eggs, tea, coffee, juice, nutella, jam, rolls, crissoints, cold cut meats, cheese, fruit, yogurts, veggies, and juice. My favorite is eating the rolls (semmeln) with butter and marmalade on top. Sometimes, dipping it in a bissel (a little) nutella!
In Bad Ischl, Emily and I went to an adorable little cafe and sat outside and I had a raspberry soda and a raspberry-chocolate cake for a late lunch! When we arrived back in Vienna at 8 pm, we went to a pub to watch the USA soccer team lose to Ghana and I ate a quesidilla at this Irish pub. The quesidilla was not like the ones they have at Otto's at Penn State--it was more like a crispy pita pocket with veggies and cheese inside! After I picked out the jalepinos, it was delicious!
Today, (Sunday) I laid off the food a bit more, but we ate Sacher Torte at the famous historical Hotel Sacher right next to the Opera house. Calling all chocolate lovers: Sacher torte may be dangerous.
Don't worry, if this makes you hungry, just ask Emily Janser for some photos! She has taken pictures of exactly every meal she eats! The presentations here are amazing. It is very cute: Emily will not touch her food until she captures it in a photo. She could make a whole album of food!
Adventures in high and low places
I can't believe it has been so long since I last wrote a blog entry! It seems like just yesterday was Thursday, when I sat posting pictures on Facebook and wondering whether I had something interesting enough to say to write a blog entry about. I guess I decided that between Wednesday and Thursday, there wasn't enough to write about. Friday morning we left early, and I left my computer behind, Saturday we came back, went right out again, and at 12:30am all I could do was fall into a deep sleep. Sunday morning I was up early for a much needed skype date, and a tour of the Staatsoper. Which is how we get to Sunday night...the first night since Tuesday that I've really had time to update this thing.
I like taking adventures. My adventures aren't incredibly adventurous, but I like just going in a direction and seeing where it takes me, especially when I am by myself. On Wednesday, I took an adventure and I was in my element: sitting in the sunlight in the grass next to the Mozart stature, listening to a street player play Mozart, and reading my Mozart article in German for class! On Thursday, I took an adventure to the Danube Island to try to find a bike to ride down the island. I was unsuccessful in completing the bike trip (actually, in finding a bike alone!), but no worries, because the last week I am here, I will be finished with German class which means I get to have the entire morning to myself every day of the week until I leave! Bike ride here I come. I want to see if I remember how. I forget the last time I rode a bike. Don't worry mom, I'll get a helmet too.
On Friday, my adventures got more adventurous and more awe-inspiring, however, I did not plan this adventure or take it by myself! This weekend, our IES professors planned a trip for us--an overnight trip to upper Austria, the countryside, where we got to learn about Bruckner and Mahler and the places they lived and worked. I could talk all day about how amazing this trip was, all the new facts and stories I learned, and the beautiful things I saw. If you want to know more, I'll have to tell you in person, but for now, I'll try to highlight the uh....highlights!
After stopping at St. Florian and meeting the organist who plays on the same Harmonium Bruckner played on, and lives in the same quarters, we travelled to quaint village called Steinbach am Attersee. In this "village" there are a few existing things: nature, a hut where Mahler composed his 2nd and 3rd symphonies, and a few beautiful village cottages. Among them, nature was the most beautiful. No words can really describe what this place looked like. If you live in State College, I hope you know that you have never really seen a mountain anywhere near PA. This place had mountains! Our hotel was right in the middle of it all--with the sparking clear lake below us and the ridiculously high mountains behind us. Steinbach am Attersee is notorious for rainy weather, but we were incredibly lucky. We even got to go for a beautiful morning boat ride on the lake on Saturday, while we listened to Mahler's 3rd symphony on the cassette player on the boat! Life couldn't get much better.
Gustav Mahler was such an interesting fellow. I've always told people that my favorite classical music is Mahler's. Something about it makes me want to get out of my seat, makes me want more, and want to know more. Luckily, we had two Mahler scholars travelling with us, and I totally got my fill of information about Mahler, at least for now. Mahler had such a hard time being satisfied with the answers he had to the questions about life. To me, being at Steinbach am Attersee was so fulfilling. I thought to myself, 'nothing in the world can beat this feeling of peace and spirit at this moment.' But Mahler, on the other hand, was the opposite. He sat and sat in the same exact spot I sat this weekend, and just got frustrated with trying to figure out how to bring the world of the spiritual and humanity and connect it with the world of nature. Things didn't work out in his mind. Questions were left unanswered until he died. And you can most certainly know of his frustrations if you simply listen to his music.
We also got to visit Bad Ischl, another lovely part of Austria. I have this wonderful memory of dressing up in a dirndl for my "heritage day" in elementary school. Seeing countless people walking around in dirndls and lederhosen--traditional Austrian clothing--makes me still want more and more of this country. I think I love being in the Austrian countryside more than I love Vienna. (!!!) I never called myself a city girl, and I thought when I met Vienna, I might have a secret love for the city. But no, this weekend has showed me how much I really love nature and, (as Mahler wanted), being 'away from it all.' I love the peacefulness. I can't take my eyes of the mountains, and I take pictures of every different flower I see. In love? I think so.
My adventures since Tuesday didn't stop here. But unfortunately, being on the edge of the Alps did! I am back in Vienna, and still having a wonderful time. I have new topics I want to share, so I may just start a new entry.... Read above!
I like taking adventures. My adventures aren't incredibly adventurous, but I like just going in a direction and seeing where it takes me, especially when I am by myself. On Wednesday, I took an adventure and I was in my element: sitting in the sunlight in the grass next to the Mozart stature, listening to a street player play Mozart, and reading my Mozart article in German for class! On Thursday, I took an adventure to the Danube Island to try to find a bike to ride down the island. I was unsuccessful in completing the bike trip (actually, in finding a bike alone!), but no worries, because the last week I am here, I will be finished with German class which means I get to have the entire morning to myself every day of the week until I leave! Bike ride here I come. I want to see if I remember how. I forget the last time I rode a bike. Don't worry mom, I'll get a helmet too.
On Friday, my adventures got more adventurous and more awe-inspiring, however, I did not plan this adventure or take it by myself! This weekend, our IES professors planned a trip for us--an overnight trip to upper Austria, the countryside, where we got to learn about Bruckner and Mahler and the places they lived and worked. I could talk all day about how amazing this trip was, all the new facts and stories I learned, and the beautiful things I saw. If you want to know more, I'll have to tell you in person, but for now, I'll try to highlight the uh....highlights!
After stopping at St. Florian and meeting the organist who plays on the same Harmonium Bruckner played on, and lives in the same quarters, we travelled to quaint village called Steinbach am Attersee. In this "village" there are a few existing things: nature, a hut where Mahler composed his 2nd and 3rd symphonies, and a few beautiful village cottages. Among them, nature was the most beautiful. No words can really describe what this place looked like. If you live in State College, I hope you know that you have never really seen a mountain anywhere near PA. This place had mountains! Our hotel was right in the middle of it all--with the sparking clear lake below us and the ridiculously high mountains behind us. Steinbach am Attersee is notorious for rainy weather, but we were incredibly lucky. We even got to go for a beautiful morning boat ride on the lake on Saturday, while we listened to Mahler's 3rd symphony on the cassette player on the boat! Life couldn't get much better.
Gustav Mahler was such an interesting fellow. I've always told people that my favorite classical music is Mahler's. Something about it makes me want to get out of my seat, makes me want more, and want to know more. Luckily, we had two Mahler scholars travelling with us, and I totally got my fill of information about Mahler, at least for now. Mahler had such a hard time being satisfied with the answers he had to the questions about life. To me, being at Steinbach am Attersee was so fulfilling. I thought to myself, 'nothing in the world can beat this feeling of peace and spirit at this moment.' But Mahler, on the other hand, was the opposite. He sat and sat in the same exact spot I sat this weekend, and just got frustrated with trying to figure out how to bring the world of the spiritual and humanity and connect it with the world of nature. Things didn't work out in his mind. Questions were left unanswered until he died. And you can most certainly know of his frustrations if you simply listen to his music.
We also got to visit Bad Ischl, another lovely part of Austria. I have this wonderful memory of dressing up in a dirndl for my "heritage day" in elementary school. Seeing countless people walking around in dirndls and lederhosen--traditional Austrian clothing--makes me still want more and more of this country. I think I love being in the Austrian countryside more than I love Vienna. (!!!) I never called myself a city girl, and I thought when I met Vienna, I might have a secret love for the city. But no, this weekend has showed me how much I really love nature and, (as Mahler wanted), being 'away from it all.' I love the peacefulness. I can't take my eyes of the mountains, and I take pictures of every different flower I see. In love? I think so.
My adventures since Tuesday didn't stop here. But unfortunately, being on the edge of the Alps did! I am back in Vienna, and still having a wonderful time. I have new topics I want to share, so I may just start a new entry.... Read above!
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Tuesday night indulgences
Every Tuesday since I've been here, I've gone to see something special. The first Tuesday, our whole group saw Die Fledermaus in standing room. The second, we saw the Wiener Philharmoniker play outside in Schönbrunn Park. The third, Emily and I went on a date to see Renee Fleming. This evening, I went to see an incredible performance of La Traviata, again, on a fabulous date with the beautiful Emily Janser! I enjoy being with one other person, after a week of chaos of being with a large, loud group of people! It is nice to share thoughts with Emily, as we have an incredible amount in common! The past two weeks, when we leave school for the day, we dress up a bit and go to a fancy little cafe and eat a good meal with fresh meat and a glass of wine. Tonight, we ordered dessert and shared a strawberry torte which tasted a little bit like heaven. Or at least, what heaven might taste like!! It is just nice to relax and enjoy a little quieter, fancier evening.
Although being with Emily and bonding with her (she is also my roommate at Penn State) is just wonderful, the real indulgence of the night was embracing the music of Verdi, and melting at the sound of the soprano, Violetta, played by Melba Ramos. Even though we were faced with the challenge of listening to Italian opera, and trying to understand the plot through German subtitles, I loved the dramatic nature of the opera. Basically, in one sentence, La Traviata is about the potency and deadliness of Love. You can only imagine how intense Verdi creates the music to depict this dramatic plot. The singing was absolutely beautiful. I could just tell how much Melba Ramos enjoyed being onstage, alone or not, and singing a difficult score with grace and without flaw. If I would have gone to see this opera 3 weeks ago, I would have struggled with the German subtitles. However, tonight, I realized just how much I have learned in a short period of time, and I understood most of it! I have gained so much vocabulary in just 3 weeks here--I can't imagine what I would pick up if I were here for an entire semester.
In addition to this blog, I have been writing in a journal, so that I can record my thoughts throughout the day, not just when I have something to share with everyone! I have been thinking about how I tend to leave out things about my music classes from this blog. It almost feels as though I'm studying culture, rather than music here. Don't get me wrong. I love my music performance workshop, where I have had many chances to perform for a small group of peers, and I have a vocal coach who is charming, and has some great pointers for me. But I do realize that I am growing more as a person and a thinker than a musician here. I enjoy singing "Wien, Wien, nur du allein," and I enjoy practicing the many, many songs I have been given to work on. But, the structure of the class is built so you get out what you put in, or rather, you get out what your peers put in because much of our class time is spent trying to get constructive criticism from our classmates. Sometimes it is helpful, other times not, but when it is not, it doesn't matter because I was blessed with a faculty at Penn State who taught me how to think critically always and hold myself to a high standard.
Music is still what I love most in the world, and what I am sure I want to do for a lifetime. This is why I call these amazing opera nights/concert nights 'indulgences.' I could get addicted to this. When I come back to America and the day turns to Tuesday night, I am going to think of Vienna and the feeling of wanting to be able to touch the heavenliness of the sounds I am so blessed to hear.
Although being with Emily and bonding with her (she is also my roommate at Penn State) is just wonderful, the real indulgence of the night was embracing the music of Verdi, and melting at the sound of the soprano, Violetta, played by Melba Ramos. Even though we were faced with the challenge of listening to Italian opera, and trying to understand the plot through German subtitles, I loved the dramatic nature of the opera. Basically, in one sentence, La Traviata is about the potency and deadliness of Love. You can only imagine how intense Verdi creates the music to depict this dramatic plot. The singing was absolutely beautiful. I could just tell how much Melba Ramos enjoyed being onstage, alone or not, and singing a difficult score with grace and without flaw. If I would have gone to see this opera 3 weeks ago, I would have struggled with the German subtitles. However, tonight, I realized just how much I have learned in a short period of time, and I understood most of it! I have gained so much vocabulary in just 3 weeks here--I can't imagine what I would pick up if I were here for an entire semester.
In addition to this blog, I have been writing in a journal, so that I can record my thoughts throughout the day, not just when I have something to share with everyone! I have been thinking about how I tend to leave out things about my music classes from this blog. It almost feels as though I'm studying culture, rather than music here. Don't get me wrong. I love my music performance workshop, where I have had many chances to perform for a small group of peers, and I have a vocal coach who is charming, and has some great pointers for me. But I do realize that I am growing more as a person and a thinker than a musician here. I enjoy singing "Wien, Wien, nur du allein," and I enjoy practicing the many, many songs I have been given to work on. But, the structure of the class is built so you get out what you put in, or rather, you get out what your peers put in because much of our class time is spent trying to get constructive criticism from our classmates. Sometimes it is helpful, other times not, but when it is not, it doesn't matter because I was blessed with a faculty at Penn State who taught me how to think critically always and hold myself to a high standard.
Music is still what I love most in the world, and what I am sure I want to do for a lifetime. This is why I call these amazing opera nights/concert nights 'indulgences.' I could get addicted to this. When I come back to America and the day turns to Tuesday night, I am going to think of Vienna and the feeling of wanting to be able to touch the heavenliness of the sounds I am so blessed to hear.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Rain, Rain, go away
The weather must be on our side. It was supposed to be a very rainy, cold weekend here, and it turned out to be quite mild. On Friday, a few of us took a trip to the Belevedere palace. Belevedere means "beautiful view," and we were so lucky to get pictures of it with blue sky in the background. On Saturday we were even blessed with some sunshine, which we felt was especially for us and our plan for the day. We planned to see Grinzing, an area of Vienna in the 19th district, the place where Beethoven wrote his famous Heiligenstadt Testament when he was realizing the suffering of his hearing impairment. The sun came out and allowed us to take a short adventure into the rolling hills of the Viennese woods, spotted with vineyards and adorable private houses. We ate outside at a Heuriger that we found right next to Beethoven's apartment. Heurigers are abundant in Grinzing and it is not hard to find one if you are walking!
I find so often that I am the one that waiters and store keepers look to to communicate to in German. When I am with a group of people, most of them freeze when a waiter approaches and asks us to start ordering. It seems like the cafes and restaurants here make you decide so much quicker! In America, as you all know, the waiter comes a few minutes after you sit down and asks if you need another few minutes to look for what you want. Even when you are reading a menu in your own language, you sometimes need 10 minutes to have everyone ready to order! But most often, the waiter will come and say "Bitte Schön," like, "May I take your order," and then he just stands there. Uhhhh. So I'm normally the one to speak up and either say, "ein moment, bitte" or I just start to order, and hope everyone will have something in mind. It can be a little flustering. So we went to a Heuriger for the first time on our own without the IES people to show us around and pay for our meals. We didn't have a clue what to do! So, I took one for the team and went in and had one of the lovely Fräuleins in a Dirndl to tell me how it works. I really actually like the attention and the challenge of the language barrier. When I'm with a group, I normally speak a mix of English and German. Or I say it in English, then remember the word for it in German, then say it in German. When I'm by myself, I try to say as much German as I possibly can! I'm going to miss it so much when I return home! I only have 3 more weeks here. My gosh, where does time fly to?
Sunday, again, the rain held off. Emily and I went to an English church service, an international non-denominational service. We absolutely fell in love with the church, the service, and even the pastor who was celebrating his last Sunday here with his family. They did a little going away ceremony, and I almost got choked up along with all the regulars in the cozy little church. During the welcome and announcements, they asked visitors to stand and introduce themselves, so Emily and I did. It felt great to be in a place where people spoke our language, sang in our language, and the sermon was so great! We were welcomed right away and invited to sit down next to a nice man who seemed to be alone. People our age came right up to us and introduced themselves and talked to us after the service. As a present to the pastor, this middle aged man sang a glorious version of "You Raise Me Up," and tears came to my eyes. I was so happy to be there. After church, we had a wonderful "afternoon tea" with all the girls at Tee Haas and Haas, a fancy, quiet Tea cafe, where we ate mini sandwiches and tiny cakes and cookies. It felt like the perfect Sunday. And, the rain even held off enough for Emily and I to take a stroll in the oldest zoo in the world in Schönbrunn.
I do wish that this weather would shape up! I took a brisk run down Mariahilfer strasse all the way to the end of it! I hope that one day, it will be a beautiful day to walk home from downtown, and do a little shopping while I'm at it! I am just now leaving to go sit at a cafe to read and journal. Perhaps the rain makes sitting with a cup of coffee and a one-of-a-kind book to read even cozier!
I find so often that I am the one that waiters and store keepers look to to communicate to in German. When I am with a group of people, most of them freeze when a waiter approaches and asks us to start ordering. It seems like the cafes and restaurants here make you decide so much quicker! In America, as you all know, the waiter comes a few minutes after you sit down and asks if you need another few minutes to look for what you want. Even when you are reading a menu in your own language, you sometimes need 10 minutes to have everyone ready to order! But most often, the waiter will come and say "Bitte Schön," like, "May I take your order," and then he just stands there. Uhhhh. So I'm normally the one to speak up and either say, "ein moment, bitte" or I just start to order, and hope everyone will have something in mind. It can be a little flustering. So we went to a Heuriger for the first time on our own without the IES people to show us around and pay for our meals. We didn't have a clue what to do! So, I took one for the team and went in and had one of the lovely Fräuleins in a Dirndl to tell me how it works. I really actually like the attention and the challenge of the language barrier. When I'm with a group, I normally speak a mix of English and German. Or I say it in English, then remember the word for it in German, then say it in German. When I'm by myself, I try to say as much German as I possibly can! I'm going to miss it so much when I return home! I only have 3 more weeks here. My gosh, where does time fly to?
Sunday, again, the rain held off. Emily and I went to an English church service, an international non-denominational service. We absolutely fell in love with the church, the service, and even the pastor who was celebrating his last Sunday here with his family. They did a little going away ceremony, and I almost got choked up along with all the regulars in the cozy little church. During the welcome and announcements, they asked visitors to stand and introduce themselves, so Emily and I did. It felt great to be in a place where people spoke our language, sang in our language, and the sermon was so great! We were welcomed right away and invited to sit down next to a nice man who seemed to be alone. People our age came right up to us and introduced themselves and talked to us after the service. As a present to the pastor, this middle aged man sang a glorious version of "You Raise Me Up," and tears came to my eyes. I was so happy to be there. After church, we had a wonderful "afternoon tea" with all the girls at Tee Haas and Haas, a fancy, quiet Tea cafe, where we ate mini sandwiches and tiny cakes and cookies. It felt like the perfect Sunday. And, the rain even held off enough for Emily and I to take a stroll in the oldest zoo in the world in Schönbrunn.
I do wish that this weather would shape up! I took a brisk run down Mariahilfer strasse all the way to the end of it! I hope that one day, it will be a beautiful day to walk home from downtown, and do a little shopping while I'm at it! I am just now leaving to go sit at a cafe to read and journal. Perhaps the rain makes sitting with a cup of coffee and a one-of-a-kind book to read even cozier!
Thursday, June 17, 2010
A contemplation on shopping culture
This one is dedicated to my sister, Samantha! I have spent a good number of times going in stores and ....wait for this one...SHOPPING. Not going crazy yet, but thoughts run through my head...read on!
During the week, I spend a lot of time at the Palais Corbelli, where I spend an hour and a half in German 4 days a week, and 2 and a half hours in performance workshops 3 times a week. The interval pauses I have in between are short, but I have no patience for sitting in the comfortable student hallway/lounge, like some of the other people taking classes here. (There are other groups at IES, not just the 11 of us music people). I can't stand the fact that I am trapped inside on beautiful sunny days when there is a whole city outside, waiting to be explored! I have probably walked down Kärntnerstrasse (the main street) about a hundred times now, and I still notice new things and new stores every single time I take a stroll! Kärnterstrasse is also the main street I have to walk down to get to the IES center. In the mornings, it is less crowded, but if I go early, I have to dodge large white vans driving wildly on the cobblestone footpaths, holding new packages for all the designer stores, as well as the abundant souvenier shops.
Today, I had a packed schedule from 10am until 5:30, except for a break between 1pm and 2:30. I had planned to practice and write postcards on that short break, but I just can not find the motivation to practice as much as I should! I am kind of getting my butt kicked here, technically and musically. I like it because I feel like I am in a 6 week music intensive program, which is great. My voice teacher is incredible, and I'm noticing things about the way I sing which I have never noticed before. She is very sweet to me, but she doesn't let things go! If I sing one note in not the prettiest way, she'll stop and tell me what to do, how to do it, and it goes on from there. Naturally, I have to stop a lot. In her words, "what you're doing doesn't sound bad, but when you make these tiny adjustments, you sould worlds better!" Well, good, I'm glad! I try to do my best for her. The repertoire I am working on here is not of great importance. I like the songs though--they are cute, and I am considering continuing on with some of them next semester.
Oops, a little off-topic! I didn't practice today. I was distracted when I stepped outside, thinking that I would buy a hoodie. I forgot to bring one with me, and it was around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and cloudy. However, when I stepped outside, it was not even really that cold! I went on an adventure anyway. I don't know really what I do exactly. I guess I just walk. I probably look pretty idiotic, with my huge black bag, staring up at the names of stores on both sides of the street as I walk down the center. Sometimes I pass one store, and then I have a second thought and turn around sharply because I suddenly decide I should see what the store offers. It is quite ridiculous. Today, on my search for an unnecessary hoodie, I pretty much went into every store that looked like it has a good assortment of ladies clothes. Some stores I walked in, and I surveyed the age group of the women roaming around. Average age: 45 probably. And what do I do? I keep looking! Sorry, Samantha! Actually, in one of those stores, I tried on a beautiful light brown blazer costing 150 Euros. I almost fell in love, and then I came back to reality. That was fun. Next store.
Ooo! Zara! I've always heard about it, but never gone in. So I go in and look around. Shopping has begun to tempt me. If you know my previous feelings about shopping, you know that I only shop for things I truly need, and only occasionally for fun, but mostly just looking. I never really have major urges to buy anything, in fact, I normally convince myself out of anything I really like. I have a short attention span for shopping, and you might as well call me a party-pooper when you put me shopping with my sisters! But now, I've experienced something new. I'm in a new city, where I have the attitude that when I leave here, I have no idea when I am coming back, so I don't mind spending my money on things that will help me remember my time living here. When I go in these stores, things call out my name. I even go into shoes stores where the average shoe price is about 85 Euros. And yes, I even tried on a pair of quite adorable, brown shoes. Who AM I?
Maybe shopping is different in Vienna? Maybe I'm going through an attitude change? Maybe I just like being by myself shopping, the feeling of being free, and not being swayed by others' opinions? I don't know, but it's weird!
Right now, I am in Cafe phil, a Viennese coffeehouse near Naschmarkt. The girls I live with are with me, and they have to work on a paper for their music history class--a class which I am thankful for abstaining from! I would describe the atmosphere of this cafe as "chill." The lights are dim, old books on bookcases line the walls, and we are sitting on couches and arm chairs with a low coffee table in between. They are playing alternative, zen and sometimes jazzy background music. I'm on their free internet. What a world I live in. I have a three day weekend ahead of me.
Enjoy summer, east coast! I don't know what to call this season that Vienna is going through!
During the week, I spend a lot of time at the Palais Corbelli, where I spend an hour and a half in German 4 days a week, and 2 and a half hours in performance workshops 3 times a week. The interval pauses I have in between are short, but I have no patience for sitting in the comfortable student hallway/lounge, like some of the other people taking classes here. (There are other groups at IES, not just the 11 of us music people). I can't stand the fact that I am trapped inside on beautiful sunny days when there is a whole city outside, waiting to be explored! I have probably walked down Kärntnerstrasse (the main street) about a hundred times now, and I still notice new things and new stores every single time I take a stroll! Kärnterstrasse is also the main street I have to walk down to get to the IES center. In the mornings, it is less crowded, but if I go early, I have to dodge large white vans driving wildly on the cobblestone footpaths, holding new packages for all the designer stores, as well as the abundant souvenier shops.
Today, I had a packed schedule from 10am until 5:30, except for a break between 1pm and 2:30. I had planned to practice and write postcards on that short break, but I just can not find the motivation to practice as much as I should! I am kind of getting my butt kicked here, technically and musically. I like it because I feel like I am in a 6 week music intensive program, which is great. My voice teacher is incredible, and I'm noticing things about the way I sing which I have never noticed before. She is very sweet to me, but she doesn't let things go! If I sing one note in not the prettiest way, she'll stop and tell me what to do, how to do it, and it goes on from there. Naturally, I have to stop a lot. In her words, "what you're doing doesn't sound bad, but when you make these tiny adjustments, you sould worlds better!" Well, good, I'm glad! I try to do my best for her. The repertoire I am working on here is not of great importance. I like the songs though--they are cute, and I am considering continuing on with some of them next semester.
Oops, a little off-topic! I didn't practice today. I was distracted when I stepped outside, thinking that I would buy a hoodie. I forgot to bring one with me, and it was around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and cloudy. However, when I stepped outside, it was not even really that cold! I went on an adventure anyway. I don't know really what I do exactly. I guess I just walk. I probably look pretty idiotic, with my huge black bag, staring up at the names of stores on both sides of the street as I walk down the center. Sometimes I pass one store, and then I have a second thought and turn around sharply because I suddenly decide I should see what the store offers. It is quite ridiculous. Today, on my search for an unnecessary hoodie, I pretty much went into every store that looked like it has a good assortment of ladies clothes. Some stores I walked in, and I surveyed the age group of the women roaming around. Average age: 45 probably. And what do I do? I keep looking! Sorry, Samantha! Actually, in one of those stores, I tried on a beautiful light brown blazer costing 150 Euros. I almost fell in love, and then I came back to reality. That was fun. Next store.
Ooo! Zara! I've always heard about it, but never gone in. So I go in and look around. Shopping has begun to tempt me. If you know my previous feelings about shopping, you know that I only shop for things I truly need, and only occasionally for fun, but mostly just looking. I never really have major urges to buy anything, in fact, I normally convince myself out of anything I really like. I have a short attention span for shopping, and you might as well call me a party-pooper when you put me shopping with my sisters! But now, I've experienced something new. I'm in a new city, where I have the attitude that when I leave here, I have no idea when I am coming back, so I don't mind spending my money on things that will help me remember my time living here. When I go in these stores, things call out my name. I even go into shoes stores where the average shoe price is about 85 Euros. And yes, I even tried on a pair of quite adorable, brown shoes. Who AM I?
Maybe shopping is different in Vienna? Maybe I'm going through an attitude change? Maybe I just like being by myself shopping, the feeling of being free, and not being swayed by others' opinions? I don't know, but it's weird!
Right now, I am in Cafe phil, a Viennese coffeehouse near Naschmarkt. The girls I live with are with me, and they have to work on a paper for their music history class--a class which I am thankful for abstaining from! I would describe the atmosphere of this cafe as "chill." The lights are dim, old books on bookcases line the walls, and we are sitting on couches and arm chairs with a low coffee table in between. They are playing alternative, zen and sometimes jazzy background music. I'm on their free internet. What a world I live in. I have a three day weekend ahead of me.
Enjoy summer, east coast! I don't know what to call this season that Vienna is going through!
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